Constructor:Constructing seams
Contents
Construction of seams
The program enables setting allowances for finishing (seams) all around, on all or individual sections, with a constant or variable seam width.
In order to construct seams, select the SEAMS tab on the screen horizontal panel
A number of parameters need to be set to construct a seam from the main outline:
- Seam width
- Seam construction type (from seam to seam, from cut to cut, etc.),
- Seam construction mode (on one section or around the entire piece).
There are several seam types:
- The seam width is the same on all piece sections
- The seam width is different on all piece sections
- The seam width is variable on the section, i.e. it is different at the beginning and at the end of the section.
Seam parameters are set on the main outline only, for each piece section. A section has its beginning and end – 2 white terminal points. The section beginning or end is determined by the positive piece rounding rule – clockwise.
Seam parameters are set in a special window which can be called up as follows:
- Select the SEAMS tab and
button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of 
.
The “Seams/Set seam parameters” text menu items can also be executed.
- Hover the cursor crosshair over the piece main outline section where the seam is to be constructed and click the left mouse button.
The section will be highlighted in color and the seam parameter setting window will be displayed on the screen:
Work order in the window «Seam parameters»
- Set the seam width
- Select the seam type
- Save the specified seam parameters
- Construct the seam
- Pass on to the next section and repeat all the operations
Set the seam width
In the left window of the seam width setting 
click the left mouse button and enter the seam parameter considering the sign: positive value if the seam is to be constructed inward the main outline, and negative if it is to be constructed outward. 1cm width is automatically set.
Select the seam type
The seam type determines the seam boundaries on the section: to the level of the adjacent section cut, to the level of the adjacent section seam, to a particular point, to the inner outline, etc.
The level to which the seam will be extended has to be set individually for the beginning and the end of the section. The left row of the seam type buttons in the “Seam parameters” window specifies parameters at the beginning of the section, while the right row is for the section end.
At the beginning of the section: And (similarly) at the end of the section:
- from the cut; to the cut - 
- from the seam to the seam - 
- from the normal line to the section beginning point; to the normal line to the section end point - 
- from any point on the section; to any point on the section- 
- from the inner outline; to the inner outline- 
“From cut to cut” seam type:
After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:
- Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From cut”
. - Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section – “To cut”
. - Select the “Record and construct” command (
) in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on this section or select other saving and seam constructing functions.
This results in constructing a seam from the section where the seam limiting points reach adjacent sections.
“From seam to seam” seam type:
After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:
- Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From seam”
. - Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section – “To seam”
. - Select the “Record and construct” command (
) in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on this section or select other saving and seam constructing functions.
This results in constructing a seam of the section where the seam limiting points reach the level of seams on adjacent sections.
The “seam to seam” type construction is used most frequently; therefore, this parameter is activated in the window automatically.
“From normal line to normal line” seam type:
After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:
- Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From normal line”
. - Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section – “To normal line”
. - Select the “Record and construct” command (
) in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on this section or select other saving and seam constructing functions.
“From point to point” seam type:
After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:
- Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From point”
.
The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.
- Specify the first point of the section (2) –the seam starting point.
The parameter window, where the selected button is highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.
- Select the button of the seam end type on the section – “To point”
.
The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.
- Specify the second point of the section (3) –the seam end point.
The parameter window, where the second selected button is also highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.
- Select the “Record and construct” command (
) in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on this section or select other saving and seam constructing functions.
This results in constructing the seam on the part of the specified section where the normal lines from the section Intermediate points are the seam limiting points.
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1. The starting and end points of the seam are to be specified considering the positive rounding of the outline – clockwise.
2. When performing this construction from the section Terminal points instead of Intermediate points, the “from normal line to normal line” seam type will be actually obtained.
3. When two points on different sections are specified, construction will not be performed.
“From line to line” seam type:
After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:
- Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From line”
.
The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.
- Specify the first contour line (2) crossing the section – the seam starting line.
The parameter window, where the selected button is highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.
- Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section “To line”
.
The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.
- Specify the second contour line (3) crossing the section – the seam end line.
The parameter window, where the second selected button is also highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.
- Select the “Record and construct” command (
) in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on this section or select other saving and seam constructing functions.
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1. The starting and end contour lines are to be specified considering the positive rounding of the outline – clockwise.
2. When two contour lines on different sections are specified, construction will not be performed.
3. The contour lines crossing the section may not reach the section level precisely.
Seam types are specified individually for the section beginning and end, therefore any combinations of different seam types are possible, for example:
“From cut to seam” type:
After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:
- Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From cut”
. - Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section – “To seam”
. - Select the “Record and construct” command (
) in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on this section or select other saving and seam constructing functions.
This results in constructing the seam where the limiting point reaches the section preceding the construction at the beginning and the seam following the construction section at the end.
“From point to line” seam type
After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:
- Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From point”
.
The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.
- Specify the point of the section (2) – the seam starting point.
The parameter window, where the selected button is highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.
- Select the button of the seam end type on the section – “To line”
.
The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.
- Specify the contour line (3) crossing the section – the seam end line.
The parameter window, where the second selected button is also highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.
- Select the “Record and construct” command (
) in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on this section or select other saving and seam constructing functions.
Save the set seam parameters
- The “Record” command (
) saves the current parameters for the selected section.
- The “Record for all sections” command ( 
) saves the current parameters for all sections.
Construct seams based on saved parameters
- The “Construct for current section” command (
) constructs the seam on the section based on previously set parameters.
- The “Construct for all sections” command (
) constructs the seam on all sections based on previously set parameters.
The (?) functions of parameter saving and seam constructing can be joined together:
- The “Record and construct” command ( 
) saves parameters for the section and constructs the seam based on these parameters on the specified section.
- The “Record and construct for all sections” command (
) saves parameters for all sections and constructs seams on all sections.
The set seam parameters are saved to the database automatically. Even if the seam is not constructed, the parameters are saved and seams can be constructed using the previously set parameters at any time. Automatic seam reconstruction operates in the program. If seam parameters have been set while the seam has not been constructed yet, automatic construction and reconstruction of the seam in case of any changes of the piece state will be performed.
Go to another piece section
If the seam width is different on different piece sections, switch to another section of the piece after saving the parameters using the “Record” command (
), in order to set new seam parameters on it. Then, continue for all sections.
- Using the “go to” commands (
) you can switch to the following or previous section (clockwise or counterclockwise along the outline), saving parameters for the previous section.
- Using the “go to” commands (
) you can switch to the following or previous section (clockwise or counterclockwise along the outline),without saving parameters for the previous section. This command allows viewing previously saved parameters for sections.
- In order to go to the next section of the piece you do not have to use the “go to” commands. All you have to do is to specify the necessary section, set the cursor crosshair on it and click the left mouse button. The section will be highlighted in color and you will see previously saved data in the parameter window or input new parameters.
If the seam width is the same on all sections of the piece, seam parameters are saved for all sections at once by means of the “Record for all sections” or “Record and construct for all sections” commands (
or 
). In this case there is no need to go to another section.
An example of setting parameters for seams of different width for sections:
- The most frequently used seam parameter for a particular piece needs to be saved for all sections by means of the “Record for all sections” function (
). - Use the “go” to commands
to switch to the section where the seam parameter has to be different. The current section will be highlighted in color. A new width value has to be entered in the parameter window for this section and the seam type should be selected if it has to be changed. Save the parameters on this particular section using the “Record” function (
). - Go to the next section with the seam width different from the previously entered one and repeat the input of new seam parameters, etc.
- Execute the “Construct for all sections” command (
). The seam will be constructed based on the previously set parameters on all sections.
Close the parameter setting window
After saving seam parameters and constructing seams, press the “Cancel” button to close the “Seam parameters” window.
Special modes of setting seams
“Variable width” mode
By default, a seam of a constant width at the beginning and at the end of the specified section is constructed. If a variable seam width needs to be set on a section, 
switch should be activated. Then the second (right) window for setting the width at the end of the section becomes active along with the left window.
For example, in the section of the center back seam of the trousers, a variable seam is often made: at the top, near the waistband, the seam is 2.5cm, while at the bottom it is 1cm.
Tip: The variable seam can be used to create new piece configurations on the section: the piece of the upper collar based on the piece of the lower one, pieces of lining based on those of the body, etc.
In order to do this:
- Construct the outline of the seam (including the variable one) based on the original piece on some sections to obtain configuration of a new piece formed by the seam sections.
For example, the upper collar outline can be created on the lower collar piece as follows (the seam type for all sections is “from seam to seam” (
)):
- The seam outline is to be designated as the main outline of the piece using the “Outline parameters” command (
) of the “OUTLINE” tab, or by executing the “Outline/ Parameters” text menu items.
You can also select other commands: the “Save outline as piece” function in the “OUTLINE” tab (
) or the “Assemble piece” function in the “CONSTRUCTING” tab (
).
"Ignore section” mode
switch allows excluding a section from the seam construction.
The sections where the “Consider section” box ( ) is unchecked in parameters,
are skipped when the seam is constructed. When constructing the previous seam, the programme does not search for intersections with the seam of this section but finds the intersection with the following section.
The “Ignore section” mode is used for sections specifying the width of the adjacent seam (steps, turn up width sections, etc.).
NOTE 1. The “Consider section” switch is activated automatically in the “Seam parameters” window. 2. The “Ignore section” mode is not used in a situation when there is no need to construct a seam on any section. Whether to construct a seam based on the set parameters or not is the matter of necessity of such constructions for completion of a particular task. 3. Do not confuse the “Ignore section” parameter with the seam width parameter equal to zero. When zero width is set, the seam will still be constructed on the section but the seam line will not have any offset from the working section. 4. When the “Ignore section” mode is selected, all buttons of parameters (seam types and widths) and all-round work on all sections (saving and constructing a seam) are locked.
“Rounding” mode
This mode allows obtaining a smooth and uniformly rounded seam on small rounded corner sections such as the collar end, the corner of a lapel, flap, etc.. These angles are usually acute and the seam has to represent each point of the main outline along the normal line while maintaining the set width. Therefore, it may sometimes be difficult to obtain a nice seam line on such sections which is necessary for creation of supplementary stitching pieces and the ready view of collars, lapels and flaps. In this case the said mode can be used. The construction will not maintain the seam width perfectly on any part of the rounded section, it will be provided at its ends only.
Organizing work with seams
Constructing seams by saved parameters
Besides the functions in the “Seam parameters” window, the following is required for constructing seams (based on the previously saved parameters):
In order to construct a seam on a separate section:
· Select the SEAMS tab and 
button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of 
. The “Seams/ Construct seam on section” text menu items can also be executed.
· Set the cursor crosshair on the main outline section. The seam will be constructed on the single specified section based on the previously set and saved parameters.
In order to construct a seam all-round on all sections:
· Select the SEAMS tab and 
button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of 
. The “Seams/Reconstruct seams completely” text menu items can also be executed.
· Set the cursor crosshair on any section of the piece. The seam will be constructed on all sections based on the previously set and saved parameters.
When performing this function with the <CTRL> key on the keyboard, the “Cut” outline will be reconstructed on the main “Operating” outline, even if seam parameters are not specified.
Seams Deleting
When a constructed seam needs to be deleted with the parameters:
- Select the SEAMS tab and
button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of 
. The “Seams/Delete derivative outline construction rules” text menu items can also be executed. - Set the cursor crosshair on the seam outline and click the left mouse button. The seam outline will be deleted and the seam parameters will be cleared.
ATTENTION! When seam parameters are deleted, all modifications (steps, cuffs, etc.) are deleted on the Cut derivative outline, and the piece symmetry status (Fold) is deactivated.
A seam outline can be deleted using 
command of the OUTLINE tab or by executing the “Outline/Delete” menu items. But the seam parameters will not be deleted in this case and when the piece status is changed, the seams will be constructed again based on the remaining parameters.
Visibility of seam parameters
In order to display information about seam parameters on the screen, the mode of element visibility should be activated by selecting the “Display seam parameters” command (
) of the element visibility block.
Then, the seam construction command logo appears near each section: the type and size of the specified seam. The seam type on the logo corresponds to the view of the seam type buttons in the “Seam parameters” window in the left and right rows – for the beginning and the end of the section.
If the “Ignore section” parameter has been activated on the section, there will be no logo of such seam.
In order to remove the displayed information, press the same button again.
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- When the “Seam parameters” window is open on the screen, simultaneous execution of any screen operations (scaling, moving, etc.) is possible.
- The “From point to point” and “From line to line” seam types as well as “Rounding” and “Disregard section” modes make sense for individual sections of the piece only, and the commands of saving parameters for all sections at a time (
and 
) will be locked. - When working with the Cut main outline “1cm” seam parameter is automatically set for constructing seams inward the outline. When working with the Ready view main outline “-1cm” seam parameter is automatically set for constructing the seam outward the outline.
Seam Construction Example
A seam with the following parameters needs to be constructed on the piece of a stitched lower collar:
The seam of the collar middle part stitching together (section 1) – 1cm;
The seam of the collar stitching around (sections 5 and 6) – 0.7cm;
The seam of stitching the collar into the neck and gorge (sections 3 and 4) – 1cm.
Construction type: all-round, on all sections, “from seam to seam”
- Select the SEAMS tab and the “Set seam parameters” command (
) in it. - Specify the first section of the main outline; e.g. section (1) of the collar middle seam. The section will be highlighted in color and the seam parameter setting window will be displayed on the screen.
- “1cm” seam width (
) and the “from seam to seam” seam type (
) are set automatically in the window - Select the “Record” command (
) to save parameters on the first section. - Execute
command to go to the second section (2). - Uncheck the box of the “Consider section” switch (
) to exclude section (2) from the seam construction operations. This is the section determining the width if the adjacent section seam (1). - Execute the “Record” command (
) - Execute
command to go to the third section (3). - Check the box of the “Consider section” switch (
). The previously set parameters (the seam width – “1cm” (
) and the seam type – “from seam to seam” (
)) are also suitable for this section (3). - Execute the “Record” command (
). - Execute
command to go to the next section (4). - Parameters of the previous section (3) remain unchanged.
- Execute the “Record” command (
) - Execute
command to go to the next section (5). - The seam width is “1cm”
and the seam type is “from seam to seam” 
- Execute the “Record” command (
) - Execute
command to go to the next section (6). - Parameters of the previous section (5) remain unchanged.
- Execute the “Record” command (
) - Execute
command to go to the next section (7). - Uncheck the box of the “Consider section” switch (
) to exclude section (7) from the seam construction operations. This is the section determining the width if the adjacent section seam (1). - Execute the “Construct for all sections” command (
).The seam is then constructed based on the previously set parameters on all sections. - In order to complete operation of the “Seam parameters” window, press the “Cancel” key.
Example of How to Use Various Seam Types
1) “From normal line” (
/ “to normal line” 
seam type
Example #1
If the dart peak is constructed by the SEAMS/“Cone” function (
) on the piece, the need arises to draw the seam to the normal line in the dart peak point on the sections adjacent to the construction – dart sides. Otherwise, the seam will be extended and will reach the intersection with the seam of the second side of the dart.
Correct construction for the sides – dart sections:
Example #2
When constructing a seam in the back scye and side back panel, front and side front panel, or in the area of the outside sleeve seam of the upper and lower sleeves, the need in additional constructions or modifications of seam lines often arises. For example, the POINT/ “Equal distance between points” function (
) is used in order to level the distance from the ledge end to the seam line:
The automatic reconstruction of seams operates in the programme, which means that any changes of the main outline will cause initial construction of seams every time.
Hence, different working options have been adopted in order to fix this leveled state. For example, the seam from the scye section can be completed right to the normal line in its terminal point; then, the inner outline is applied along the line of the scye rounding on the leveled distance from the terminal point of such seam.
2) “From line” 
/ “to line” 
Seam Type
Extending the seam to the level of the inclined section of the outline (slant pocket entrance, yoke inclined line, dart line):
