Design:Piece Handling

Real pieces can be assembled from a drafted construction drawing by means of specifying their ready view outlines, inner outlines and grains using special functions. You can continue working with the obtained pieces: construct seams on them, draw them on the plotter, etc.

The following issues are discussed in this section:

• the process of creating pieces using separate construction elements;
• operations with the screen (for pieces);
• setting seam parameters and constructing seams;
• seam algebra (for pieces);
• modification of cut outlines;
• sending pieces to the plotter or printer;
• sending pieces to the main constructor program for handling them as industrial pieces.

Creating Pieces Using Separate Construction Elements

Creating working pieces based on a construction drawing drafted in the “Design” program involves assembling piece outlines of separate construction elements first: the ready view and inner outlines; and then pieces are assembled using the obtained outlines. These functions are performed in the construction drawing window in the Pieces tab.

The locked commands will become active when you go to the piece handling window.

Assembling Outlines

In order to assemble piece outlines using separate construction elements:

• Select the Pieces tab;
• Press button of the button menu. The cursor of the program will take the form of. Or execute the “Piece(s)/ Assemble outline” menu item.

• Use the cursor crosshair to indicate all construction elements (segments, lines, arcs, …) successively which the assembled outline will consist of. Elements should be selected in the clockwise direction. Selected elements will be highlighted in color.
• When all necessary elements have been specified, click the right mouse button to finish execution of the function. A window for setting outline parameters will be displayed on the screen.

• Click on the appropriate type to specify the outline type
• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the action or the “Cancel” button to undo.

A name will be automatically assigned to the outline, in sequence, with “C” at the beginning of the name.

The outline name can be also input manually.

For example: In order to assemble the “Bodysuit front part” later on, two outlines this piece consists of need to be assembled:

• 1. The “Finished view” type outline for the front part;
  2. The “Inner contour” type outline for the gore line.

To do this: For outline 1:

• Select the Pieces tab (if it has not been selected yet);
• Press button of the button menu. The cursor will take the form of. Or execute the “Piece(s)/ Assemble outline” menu item.

• Use the cursor crosshair to indicate lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, which the assembled outline will consist of (clockwise).

Selected elements will be highlighted in color.

• Click the right mouse button to finish execution of the function. A window will be displayed for setting outline parameters where the outline type needs to be specified by means of selecting the “Finished view” switch.

• Press the “Yes” button.

Name “C1” will be automatically assigned to this “finished view” outline.

For outline 2:

• Press button of the button menu. The cursor will take the form of.

Or execute the “Piece(s)/ Assemble outline” menu item.

• Use the cursor crosshair to indicate the line (8) the assembled outline will consist of.

• Click the right mouse button to finish execution of the function. A window will be displayed for setting outline parameters where the outline type needs to be specified by means of selecting the “Inner outline” switch.

• Press the “Yes” button. Name “C2” will be automatically assigned to this “inner outline” contour.

The “Assemble outline” function has a number of specific features:

1. Grain line: If the grain outline has been purposely created on the piece, the piece will be oriented in the program accordingly, based on the specified grain. The grain direction will depend on the direction (of the start and end points) when creating a line for the grain.

If the grain has not been created purposely, it is automatically constructed vertically.

1. Selection of the necessary element: When you select an element on the screen using a cursor and click the left mouse button, you can read its name in the bottom area of the screen.

If a few items are close to or on each other in this screen area, the element necessary for work can be selected.

This option is of special significance when performing the “Assemble outline” function where is it often necessary to indicate one of several lines located close to each other.

In order to perform the selection, hold the left mouse button down and press the “Space” key on the keyboard. Then, the names of the elements you are currently pointing at will be shown in the bottom screen area. When you see the name of the item you need, release the left mouse button.

1. Unselecting the last selected element: When the “Assemble outline” function is activated, the “back” button in the button menu becomes active. If a wrong element or a number of elements have been erroneously indicated when performing the function, button (“back”) provides step-by-step cancelling of the last selection. This command is executed in parallel with the main command.

To do this, do not stop execution of the “Assemble outline” function (without clicking the right mouse button so that the cursor still has command logo) and press as many times as the number of selected elements you wish to unselect. Then, you can continue indicating the necessary elements.

1. Stopping the command execution: When the “Assemble outline” function is activated, the “Stop” button () in the button menu becomes active, which allows terminating the command execution;

1. Infinite straight lines do not participate in outline assembling.
2. Outline assembling: Be sure to indicate sections in the clockwise direction!

Attention

When performing the “Assemble outline” function, lines should be indicated exactly in the part which will be included into the assembled outline.

It is essential in situations where the line partially exceeds the border of the next specified line (see Line 2).

It may become necessary to use the “old” assembling method. You can activate this assembling mode using the <CTRL> key on the keyboard. The “old” assembly is based on the principle of searching for intersections between specified sections for each size in the indicated location precisely (not proportionally for sizes relative to the clicked location). The new method is based on the intersection of sections but with regard to the ratio of section parts for sizes (if in one size a click on the line is in the middle of its length, the middles of sections will be dealt with in all sizes).

Note

а). When the outline is being assembled, a situation may arise when in some sizes piece sections seem to “stick out” of the outline. It may occur if a section has a big range of the increment value for sizes.

The section length can be so different in different sizes that when the middle of the section is indicated in the smallest size, in the largest size (where the middle is also found) it will be a part exceeding the next section crossing it. This is what violates the main condition of assembling: indicating lines exactly in the part which is to be included into the assembled outline.

b). The principle that underlies the Outline Assembly functions is intersection of lines.

If two parallel lines are specified, such assembly cannot be correct technically.

It is recommended that the drawing should be checked for all sizes using the screen scrolling of sizes on the run screen bottom panel. If this situation arises, you should take additional actions so that the program does not search for intersections of lines automatically: they should clearly converge at the necessary point instead. This will help avoid problems with the Outline Assembly.

In some situations it may be helpful to switch to the second (“old”) assembly method using the “CTRL” button on the keyboard.

Assembling Pieces

In order to assemble a piece using previously created individual outlines:

• Select the Pieces tab (if it has not been selected yet);
• Press button of the button menu or execute the “Piece(s)/ Assemble piece” menu item. The cursor of the program will take the form of.

• Use the cursor crosshair to indicate all the outlines the assembled piece will consist of successively. The main outline should be indicated first (the ready view outline or cut outline), and then (in any sequence) inner outlines, and grain – if this outline has been purposely created.
• When all outlines have been specified, click the right mouse button to finish the function execution.

A parameter setting window will be displayed on the screen where the piece name needs to be input.

When setting the piece name, the “space” key on the keyboard must not be used. In order to set a space between words, hold the SHIFT button on the keyboard down and press the “dash” button above the alphabetical panel of the keyboard. Do not use the hyphen sign in piece names.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the action or the “Cancel” button to undo.

Based on the example described above, the function of creating the “Bodysuit front part” of two outlines will be performed as follows:

• Assemble the outlines the future piece is to consist of (see description of the “Assemble piece” function):

• 1. The “Ready view” type outline for the front part;
  2. The “Inner outline” type outline for the gore line.
• Select the Pieces tab (if it has not been selected yet);
• Press button or execute the “Piece(s)/ Assemble piece” menu item. The cursor of the program will take the form of.

• Use the cursor crosshair to indicate the ready view outline “C1” and the inner outline “C2” the piece will consist of.
• Click the right mouse button.

A parameter setting window will be displayed on the screen where the piece name needs to be input.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the action.

The “Assemble piece” function has a number of specific features:

1). If you specify two “Ready View” outlines in succession when assembling a piece using outlines, the first specified outline will be the “Ready View” outline while the second one will be the “Inner outline” in the piece.

For example, there is a piece of the Front and a piece of a Pocket on the front which is needed both as a separate piece and as the inner outline on the front for indicating the pocket location. In this case, when the Front piece is assembled, you should first specify the Front outline, and then the Pocket outline.

2). A lot of constructors prefer to work with the “Ready View” outline, and then, after necessary modifications, seam allowances are laid off outward on the piece and the “Cut” outline is thus constructed.

Those who work with piece cuts and then lay off seams inward should consider the following:

When a piece is assembled using the outlines with the “Cut” as the main one among them, this outline will be automatically duplicated with another outline (the so-called “Operating Outline”). This allows preserving the configuration of the principal outline when using functions for cut designing: construction of steps, corners, cuffs, vents, etc.

Deleting Outlines

In order to delete an outline:

• Press button of the button menu. The cursor will take the form of.

Or execute the “Piece(s)/ Delete outline” menu item.

• Use the cursor to indicate an outline (or a few outlines) which needs to be deleted and click the left mouse button.

Working with pieces window

When pieces assembled using separate construction elements are ready, further operations with them are performed in the piece handling window . In order to go to it, activate it by pressing the left mouse button.

You can set and construct seams on pieces in this window. The pieces obtained can be printed using the printer or plotter; they can be moved on the screen, rotated, inverted mirror wise and overlapped in different ways.

Attention! When switching to the piece handling mode after some changes in the algorithm (for example, replacement of the “Assemble outline” or “Assemble piece” operators) both old and new pieces will be displayed on the screen at the same time. command or the “Project/ Execute” menu items need to be executed.

Working with screen (for Pieces)

Screen operating commands in the ready piece handling mode ( button) become active immediately after switching to this operating mode.

The functions that are active when operating with both drawings and pieces are described in the “Screen Handling (for Drawing)” section. These include image zooming, screen redrawing, element visibility and program setting functions.

Commands which are active only in the piece handling mode and functions which have some differences in operation when switching to the piece mode will be described below.

Piece Organization Functions

“Organizing” Screen

When button is selected or the “Screen/ Organize screen” menu item is executed, pieces will be displayed in the scale which allows viewing all pieces on the screen at once, and they will be positioned in such a way that none of the pieces overlays another one.

Displaying Piece in Screen Center

If a particular piece needs to be selected and displayed in the full screen mode:

• Select button or execute the “Screen/ Piece on screen” menu items. The cursor will take the form of.
• Click with the cursor crosshair on any element of the selected piece.

The image will be zoomed in so that the piece can be seen best and fit entirely in the screen.

Piece Moving Functions

The block of commands for piece moving is located in the left button menu of the program:

Random Moving

In order to move a piece arbitrarily on the screen:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of.
• Set the cursor crosshair onto a line or point of the piece and (without releasing the left mouse button) move the piece arbitrarily to the required location on the screen.
• Release the left mouse button. This displacement will be fixed.
• You can set the cursor onto another piece and continue working with this command.
• In order to exit the command, press the right mouse button.

When the <CTRL> is held down on the keyboard, the function of the onscreen piece moving () allows obtaining another copy of the piece being displaced. This option can be used to perform various checks of matching, bends of pieces, etc.

When construction is performed repeatedly (), these piece copies are removed from the screen.

Rotation by 90 Degrees

In order to rotate a piece by 90 degrees:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of.
• Set the cursor crosshair onto a line or point of the piece and click the left mouse button. The piece will be rotated by 90 degrees clockwise. Each mouse click will continue the clockwise rotation.
• You can set the cursor onto another piece and continue working with this command.
• In order to exit the command, press the right mouse button.
• In order to reset the piece to its initial state:

Press button and set the cursor crosshair on any element of the group.

Random Rotation

In order to rotate a piece by a random angle:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of.
• Set the cursor at any point on the piece line and rotate the piece arbitrarily by the required angle without releasing the left mouse button.
• Release the left mouse button. This rotation will be fixed.

Rotation is performed around the piece center.

• You can set the cursor onto another piece and continue working with this command.
• In order to exit the command, press the right mouse button.
• In order to reset the piece to its initial state:

Press button and set the cursor crosshair onto any element of the group.

Mirroring

In order to rotate a piece mirror wise on the screen:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of.
• Click the left mouse button on a point or line of the piece. A window of rotation options will be displayed on the screen:

• Click the mouse button to select the button for rotation relative to the vertical line , horizontal line or around any other line .

When any of these three options is selected, the piece will be rotated mirror wise.

In order to perform mirroring vertically (Fig. 1) and horizontally (Fig. 2), it does not matter which line or point will be specified because mirroring will be performed relative to the center of the piece.

Fig.1 Fig.2

In order to perform mirroring around a line, enter the command and specify the line (1) the piece needs to be rotated mirror wise around (Fig. 3).

Fig.3

• You can set the cursor onto another piece and continue working with this command.
• In order to cancel exiting the rotation request window, select the “Cancel” button.
• In order to exit the command, click the right mouse button.
• In order to reset the piece to its initial state, press button and set the cursor crosshair onto any element of the group.

Bending Pieces

In order to bend a piece along its bend line:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of.
• Set the cursor crosshair onto the bend line (1), then on a line or point of the part of the piece to be bent (2).

The part of the piece (2) will be rotated around the bend line.

• You can set the cursor onto another piece and continue working with this command.
• In order to exit the command, press the right mouse button.
• In order to reset the piece to its initial state:

Press button and set the cursor crosshair onto any element of the piece.

When the function is performed relative to a curved line, the bend will be performed tangentially to the clicked point. I.e. the bend is performed in several places of the curve, tangentially, as when handling paper, including checking of the curved bottom line turn up.

Resetting Pieces to Their Initial State

In order to reset a piece to its initial state after some onscreen movement operations have been performed with it:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of.
• Position the cursor crosshair onto any piece element. The item will be reset to its initial state.
• You can set the cursor onto another piece and continue working with this command.
• In order to exit the command, press the right mouse button.

All the onscreen movement functions described above operate with both a single piece and groups of pieces. So-called groups of pieces are formed using onscreen overlapping which is described below.

Piece Overlapping Functions

The block of onscreen piece overlapping commands is located in the left button menu of the program.

These commands allow performing so-called onscreen movements. They are designed for checking matching and configurations of lines between pieces and their parts.

Overlapping Piece Points

In order to overlap a point of one piece with a point of another piece:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of
• Specify the point (1) on the first piece where the movement will be performed to.
• Specify the point (2) on the second piece which is to be moved.

Overlapping of the selected items to one point (1) will take place without any piece rotation (i.e. parallel movement of the piece on the screen will take place).

• You can set the cursor onto points of another pair of pieces, etc. to continue working with the command.
• In order to exit the command, press the right mouse button.

Overlapping Piece Sections

In order to overlap two pieces by their sections:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of

• Specify the first point (1) of the first (fixed) piece.
• Specify the first point (2) of the second (moved) piece.

• Specify the second point (3) of the first (fixed) piece.
• Specify the second point (4) of the second (moved) piece.

When this command is executed, precise overlapping of the first point of the section into the first fixed point takes place while the second fixed point will determine rotation of the piece along the section from the first to the second fixed points.

• You can set the cursor onto points of another pair of pieces, etc. to continue working with the command.
• In order to stop the command operation, press the right mouse button.

Overlapping Section Ends

In order to overlap pieces at the ends of sections: Press button. The cursor will take the form of

• Specify the end of the line (1а) of the first (fixed) piece near its terminal point (1).

• Specify the end of the line (2а) of the second (moved) piece near its terminal point (2).

When this command is performed, lines are overlapped at their ends, i.e. by their vector direction. Lines are overlapped until their configuration coincides.

• You can set the cursor onto lines of another pair of pieces, etc. to continue working with the command.
• In order to exit the command, press the right mouse button.

Overlapping Section Ends on Extension

In order to overlap pieces at section ends on their extension:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of
• Specify the end of the line (1а) of the first (fixed) piece near its terminal point (1).

• Specify the end of the line (2а) of the second (moved) piece near its terminal point (2).

The line of the moved group will be overlapped onto the extension of the fixed line.

• You can set the cursor onto a line of another pair of pieces to continue working with the command.
• In order to exit the command, press the right mouse button.

After one of the four overlapping commands described above has been executed, pieces interlock by the specified lines or points and form so-called groups. Outlines of grain lines of a group are highlighted in color. Grains for pieces of a new group will be colored differently.

The onscreen moving commands described above can be used for pieces collected in groups:

Deleting Last Commands for Groups

In order to delete the last command for a group (groups) of overlapped pieces:

• Press . If only one group has been created, “step-by-step rollback” is automatically activated for the actions performed with the group up to the very first one, i.e. until the button becomes locked.
• If several groups have been created, when command is selected, the cursor takes the form of .

Position the cursor crosshair onto a piece of the required group and click the left mouse button.

Destruction of Groups

In order to destroy a group (groups) of overlapped pieces:

• Press button. If only one group has been created, it will be automatically destroyed and the button will become locked.
• If a few groups have been created, when button is selected, the cursor takes the form of.

Position the cursor crosshair onto a piece from the required group and click the left mouse button.

Visibility of Different Piece Elements on Screen

When there is a lot of visual information on the screen, it is difficult to deal with it. Sometimes it can be necessary to indicate a particular outline but it overlays another one… In order to solve such problems, you can deactivate visibility of some outlines, parameters, elements, etc. on the screen.

The button menu has a group of buttons designed for operating the visibility of piece elements.

All types of piece elements are shown on these buttons. The button with the image of an element allows deactivating its visibility by clicking the left mouse button. The selected element is not removed from the screen but it becomes invisible.

Denominations of visibility buttons:

- Point -Piece name - Parameters of seams and constructions (cuffs, vents, …)

- Seam - Cut - Operating

- Inner outline - Grain - Inscription point

If visibility of a particular parameter needs to be deactivated on all pieces at once, the switch for operating all pieces should be activated:

If you need to operate a single piece, set the switch to the single piece handling mode:

When working in this mode, you need to position the cursor crosshair onto the selected piece and click the left mouse button, apart from clicking the visibility button of the necessary element.

Besides, the element whose visibility is deactivated will not be drafted when drawing the piece using a printer or a plotter.

The “Operating” outline appears only in projects where the Cut (not the “Ready view” (Seam)) has been set as the main one when assembling the outline. Another outline – “Operating outline” – automatically appears under the Cut outline in the “Piece Handling” mode. The purpose of this differentiation of outlines is as follows: When different modifications (Folded hem, Steps, Ledges, …) are performed on the Cut, all the operations are carried out with the cut, while the main “Operating” outline does not change. This allows obtaining these modifications as derived functions on the main outline along with the derivative seam outline (Ready view). When the main “Operating” outline changes, both the seam and the cut also change automatically.

Operating outlineCut

Attention Do not forget to reactivate the element visibility (click the left mouse button on the switch). Otherwise, further operations with it will not be possible.

Setting Seam Parameters, Constructing Seams

The program allows setting seam allowances all round or on particular sections, as well as constant and variable seam widths.

Go to the window for operations with ready pieces to perform these functions.

Then, select the Pieces tab on the screen horizontal panel:

In order to construct a seam from the main outline, a number of parameters need to be set:

• Seam width
• Type of the seam construction (from seam to seam, from cut to cut, etc.),
• Seam construction mode (on a single section or all round for the entire piece).

There are several types of seams:

• Seam width is the same on all piece sections
• Seam width is different on different piece sections
• The seam width is variable on a section, i.e. it is different at the beginning and at the end of the section.

Seam parameters are set for each section of the piece main outline. Each section has its beginning and end – 2 white terminal points. Which is the beginning and which is the end of the section is determined by the rule of the positive outline rounding – clockwise. In a closed outline the end of one section coincides with the beginning of another one, and the end of the last section coincides with the beginning of the first one. Besides two limiting points of the section – Terminal points, points of the outline color can be present on the section. They are Intermediate points which create the line curving.

“Seam Parameters” Window

Parameters are set in a special window. In order to retrieve the window:

• Select the Pieces tab;
• Execute command of the button menu. The mouse cursor will take the form of. Or execute the “Piece(s)/Set seam parameters” text menu item.
• Position the cursor crosshair onto the section of the piece main outline where a seam needs to be constructed and click the left mouse button.

The section will be highlighted in color and the seam parameter window will be displayed on the screen:

Operations in the “Seam Parameters” Window

• Set the seam width
• Select the seam type
• Save the set seam parameters
• Construct the seam
• Go to the next piece section and repeat all operations

1) Setting the seam width

Click the left mouse button in the left box for setting the seam width and input the seam parameter for the specified section with regard to the sign: a positive value for constructing a seam inward the main outline, and a negative one for constructing outward.

The most commonly used seam parameter – 1cm. – is set automatically.

2) Selecting the seam type

The seam type determines the seam boundaries on the section: to the level of the adjacent section cut, to the level of the adjacent section seam, to a particular point, to the inner outline, etc.

The level to which the seam will be extended has to be set individually for the beginning and the end of the section. The left row of the seam type buttons in the “Seam parameters” window specifies parameters at the beginning of the section, while the right row is for the section end.

At the section beginning: And (similarly) at the section end:

- from the cut; to the cut -

- from the seam; to the seam -

- from the normal line to the section start point; to the normal line to the section end point -

- from any point on the section; to any point on the section -

- from the inner outline; to the inner outline -

Setting Different Seam Types

“From cut to cut” seam type:

After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:

• Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From cut” .
• Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section – “To cut” .

Then, you need to go to parameter saving and seam construction functions. For example, in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on a section, the “Record and construct” command () needs to be executed.

This results in constructing a seam from the specified section where the seam limiting points reach adjacent sections.

“From seam to seam” seam type:

After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:

• Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From seam” .
• Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section – “To seam” .

Then, you need to go to parameter saving and seam construction functions. For example, in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on a section, the “Record and construct” command () needs to be executed.

This results in constructing a seam from the specified section where the seam limiting points reach the level of seams on adjacent sections.

The “seam to seam” type construction is used most frequently; therefore, this parameter is activated in the window automatically.

“From normal line to normal line” seam type:

After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:

• Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From normal line” .
• Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section – “To normal line” .

Then, you need to go to parameter saving and seam construction functions. For example, in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on a section, the “Record and construct” command () needs to be executed.

This results in constructing a “hanging” seam from the specified section where the seam limiting points reach the level of the normal lines (perpendiculars) from the section terminal points.

“From point to point” seam type:

After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:

• Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From point” .

The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.

• Specify the first point of the section (2) –the seam starting point.

The parameter window, where the selected button is highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.

• Select the button of the seam end type on the section – “To point” .

The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.

• Specify the second point of the section (3) – the seam end point.

The parameter window, where the second selected button is also highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.

Then, you need to go to parameter saving and seam construction functions. For example, in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on a section, the “Record and construct” command () needs to be executed.

This results in constructing a seam on the part of the specified section where normal lines from the section Intermediate points are the seam limiting points.

Note

1. The starting and end points of the seam are to be specified considering the positive rounding of the outline – clockwise.
2. When performing this construction from the section Terminal points instead of Intermediate points, the “from normal line to normal line” seam type will be actually obtained.
3. If two points on different sections are specified, construction will not be performed.

“From line to line” seam type:

After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:

• Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From line” .

The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.

• Specify the first contour line (2) crossing the section – the seam starting line.

The parameter window, where the selected button is highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.

• Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section “To line” .

The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.

• Specify the second contour line (3) crossing the section – the seam end line.

The parameter window, where the second selected button is also highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.

Then, you need to go to parameter saving and seam construction functions. For example, in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on a section, the “Record and construct” command () needs to be executed.

This results in constructing a seam on the part of the specified section where the levels of contour lines crossing the working section are the seam limiting points.

Note

1. The starting and end contour lines are to be specified considering the positive rounding of the outline – clockwise.
2. If two contour lines on different sections are specified, construction will not be performed.
3. The contour lines crossing the section may not reach the section level precisely.

Seam types are specified separately for the section beginning and end, therefore any combinations of different seam types are possible, for example:

“From cut to seam” type:

After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:

• Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From cut” .
• Select the button of the seam type at the end of the section – “To seam” .

Then, you need to go to parameter saving and seam construction functions. For example, in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on a section, the “Record and construct” command () needs to be executed.

This results in constructing the seam where the limiting point reaches the section preceding the construction at the beginning and the seam following the construction section at the end.

“From point to line” seam type

After specifying the main outline section (1) and setting the seam width:

• Select the button of the seam type at the beginning of the section – “From point” .

The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.

• Specify the point of the section (2) – the seam starting point.

The parameter window, where the selected button is highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.

• Select the button of the seam end type on the section – “To line” .

The seam parameters window is removed from the screen so that it does not obstruct the visibility of the section.

• Specify the contour line (3) crossing the section – the seam end line.

The parameter window, where the second selected button is also highlighted, is displayed on the screen again.

Then, you need to go to parameter saving and seam construction functions. For example, in order to save the parameters and construct a seam on a section, the “Record and construct” command () needs to be executed.

This results in constructing a seam where the seam limiting point reaches the point perpendicular to the specified intermediate point at the beginning, and to the specified line at the end.

3) Saving set seam parameters

- The “Record” command () saves the current parameters for the selected section.

- The “Record for all sections” command () saves the current parameters for all sections.

4) Constructing seams based on saved parameters

- The “Construct for current section” command () constructs a seam on the section based on previously set parameters.

- The “Construct for all sections” command () constructs a seam on all sections based on previously set parameters.

The functions of parameter saving and seam constructing can be joined together:

- The “Record and construct” command () saves parameters for the section and constructs a seam based on these parameters on the specified section.

- The “Record and construct for all sections” command () saves parameters for all sections and constructs seams on all sections.

Note The set seam parameters are saved to the database automatically. Even if seam construction is not performed, the parameters are saved and seams can be constructed using the previously set parameters at any time.

5) Going to another piece section

If the seam width is different on different piece sections, switch to another section of the piece (it is highlighted in color) after setting seam parameters and saving them on the first specified section using the “Record” command (), in order to set new seam parameters on it. Then, continue for all sections.

- Using the go to commands () you can switch to the next or previous section (clockwise or counterclockwise along the outline), saving the parameter recorded for the previous section.

- Using the go to commands () you can switch to the next or previous section (clockwise or counterclockwise along the outline), without saving the parameter recorded for the previous section.

For a piece with parameters that have already been created, this command can be used to view parameters for different sections.

- In order to go to the next section of the piece you do not have to use the go to commands. All you have to do is to specify the necessary section, set the cursor crosshair onto it and click the left mouse button. The section will be highlighted in color and you can either view previously saved data in the parameter window or input new parameters.

If the seam width is the same on all sections of the piece, seam parameters are saved for all sections at once by means of the “Record for all sections” or “Record and construct for all sections” commands (or ). In this case there is no need to go to another section.

Recommendation

A method for setting parameters of seams with different widths on sections:

• The most frequently used seam width needs to be saved for all sections by means of the “Record for all sections” function ().
• Use the go to commands to switch to the section where the seam parameter is to be different. The current section will be highlighted in color. A new width value is to be entered in the parameters window for this section and the seam type should be selected if it has to be changed. Save parameters for this particular section using the “Record” function ().
• Go to the next section with the seam width different from the previously entered one and repeat the input of new parameters of the seam, etc.
• Execute the “Construct for all sections” command (). The seam will be constructed based on the previously set parameters on all sections.

6) Closing the parameter setting window

After saving seam parameters and constructing seams, press the “Cancel” button to close the “Seam parameters” window.

Special Modes for Seam Setting

1) “Variable width” mode

By default, a seam of a constant width at the beginning and at the end of the specified section is constructed. If a variable seam width is to be set for a section, switch should be activated. Then the second (right) box for setting the seam width at the end of the section becomes active along with the left window.

For example, on a section of the trousers rear cut, a variable seam is often made: at the top, near the waistband, the seam is 2.5cm, while at the bottom it is 1cm.

2) “Disregard section” mode

switch allows excluding a section from the seam construction operation.

The sections where the “Take section into account” box () is unchecked in parameters, are skipped when the seam is constructed. When constructing the previous seam, the programme does not search for intersections with the seam of this section but finds the intersection with the next section.

The “Disregard section” mode is used for sections specifying the width of the adjacent seam (steps, turn up width sections, etc.).

Note

1. The “Take section into account” switch is activated automatically in the “Seam parameters” window.
2. The “Disregard section” mode should not be used in a situation when there is no need to construct a seam on a section. Whether to construct a seam based on the set parameters or not is the matter of necessity of such constructions for completion of a particular task.
3. Do not confuse the “Disregard section” parameter with the seam width parameter equal to zero. When zero width is set, the seam will still be constructed on the section but the seam line will not have any offset from the working section.

3) “Rounding” mode

This mode allows obtaining a smooth and uniformly rounded seam on small rounded corner sections such as the collar end, the corner of a lapel or rever, flap, etc.

These angles are usually acute and the seam has to represent each point of the main outline along the normal line while maintaining the set width. Therefore, it may sometimes be difficult to obtain a nice seam line on such sections which is necessary for creation of supplementary stitching pieces and the ready view of collars, lapels and flaps.

This mode can be used in such cases. The construction will not maintain the seam width perfectly on any part of the rounded section, it will be provided at its ends only.

Handling Seams

Seams can be constructed (or reconstructed) based on previously set parameters using buttons of the horizontal button menu:

- construct a seam on a separate section (or execute the “Piece(s)/ Construct seam on section” menu item);

- construct seams completely on a piece (or execute the “Piece(s)/ Reconstruct seams completely” menu item).

If a constructed seam needs to be deleted, select button of the horizontal button menu or select the “Piece(s)/ Delete derivative outline construction rules” menu item. When this command is selected, set the cursor crosshair onto the seam outline and click the left mouse button.

In order to display information about seam parameters on the screen, the mode of seam parameter visibility should be activated by selecting command of the outline visibility block.

Then, the seam construction command logo appears near each section: the type and size of the specified seam. The seam type on the logo is determined according to the seam type buttons in the “Seam parameters” window in the left and right rows – for the beginning and the end of the section.

The displayed information can be removed from the screen by means of another pressing of the same button.

Note

1. When the “Seam parameters” window is open on the screen, parallel execution of any onscreen operations (zooming, moving, etc.) is possible.
2. The “From point to point” and “From line to line” seam types as well as “Rounding” and “Disregard section” modes make sense for individual sections of the piece only, and not for all sections of the piece. Therefore, when these parameters are selected, the commands for saving parameters for all sections at a time ( and ) will be locked.
3. When working with the Cut main outline “1cm” seam parameter is automatically set for constructing seams inward the outline. When working with the Ready view main outline “-1cm” seam parameter is automatically set for constructing the seam outward the outline.

Seam Construction Example

A seam with the following parameters needs to be constructed on the piece of a stitched lower collar:

The seam of the collar middle part stitching together (section 1) – 1cm;

The seam of the collar stitching around (sections 5 and 6) – 0.7cm;

The seam of stitching the collar into the neck and gorge (sections 3 and 4) – 1cm.

Construction type: all-round, for all sections, “from seam to seam”

1. Select the Pieces tab and the “Set seam parameters” command () in it.
2. Specify the first section (1) of the main outline. The section will be highlighted in color and the seam parameter setting window will be displayed on the screen.
3. “1cm” seam width () and the “from seam to seam” seam type () are set automatically in the window
4. Select the “Record” command () to save parameters on the first section.
5. Execute command to go to the second section (2).
6. Uncheck the box of the “Take section into account” switch () to exclude the section (2) from the seam construction operations. This is the section determining the width of the adjacent section seam (1).
7. Execute the “Record” command ()
8. Execute command to go to the third section (3).
9. Check the box of the “Take section into account” switch (). The previously set parameters (the seam width – “1cm” () and the seam type – “from seam to seam” ()) are also suitable for this section (3).
10. Execute the “Record” command ().
11. Execute command to go to the next section (4).
12. Parameters of the previous section (3) remain unchanged.
13. Execute the “Record” command ().
14. Execute command to go to the next section (5).
15. The seam width is “1cm” and the seam type is “From seam to seam” #
16. Execute the “Record” command ().
17. Execute command to go to the next section (6).
18. Parameters of the previous section (5) remain unchanged.
19. Execute the “Record” command ().
20. Execute command to go to the next section (7).
21. Uncheck the box of the “Take section into account” switch () to exclude the section (7) from the seam construction operations. This is the section determining the width of the adjacent section seam (1).
22. Execute the “Construct for all sections” command ().The seam is then constructed based on the previously set parameters on all sections.

In order to complete operation of the “Seam parameters” window, press the “Cancel” key.

Seam Algebra (For working with pieces mode)

Working with ready pieces, various measurements need to be made.

You can measure lines, parts of lines, distances between points along a straight line or along the projection of a distance onto the X or Y axis as well as display the results of the measurements.

A measurement panel of the “Seam Algebra” is located in the lower horizontal area of the screen.

Display field for lengths of measured linesDisplay field for measurement resultsMeasuring command buttons

These buttons can be used to perform the following measurements:

• and buttons allow starting the measuring operation; select the necessary sign and then press one of the measuring command buttons
• button allows measuring the entire section.
• button allows measuring the distance along a curve line between so-called check points (i.e. points that are not the ends of the section but create the required bend of the line and hold the line shape during deformations). These points have the same color as the outline but their size corresponds to that of terminal points. Such points are created, for example, when operating in the “Curve based on three points” command of the Point tab.
• button allows making measurements between any two points along a straight line.
• and buttons allow determining the projection of the distance to be measured between two points onto the X or Y axis.
• button displays the length values of all sections of a particular outline. This command does not work in the drawing handling mode.

Command buttons for handling the obtained measurement data (for the size which is on the screen when operating the project) are located in the left area of the “Seam Algebra”

button is designed for clearing the measurement window. The measurement values which have already been viewed, need to be deleted using this button (to prevent them from affecting the results of new measurements made by you).

button allows deleting only selected values from the measurement window instead of deleting all. This button is useful when you need to eliminate a mistake made during measurements. The erroneously measured value is selected by clicking the mouse button on it and is deleted by pressing this button.

button allows viewing the result of particular measurements for another size, height or width retrieved by you.

In the “Seam Algebra (for Drawings)” section specific features of each command are described. The Seam Algebra for pieces differs in some ways.

Measurement Functions for Piece Handling Mode

Measuring Line Length

In order to measure the length of any line entirely:

• Press button . The cursor will take the form of .

• ( button is activated automatically when this button is selected, therefore, you do not have to press it in this case. However, if another measuring command has been used before this measurement (for example, ), this command needs to be selected.)

• Position the cursor crosshair onto the line to be measured (1) and click the left mouse button. The measured line will be colored red.
• The measurement result for the size on the screen will be displayed in the left box of the table.

Measuring Part of Line Between Points

In order to measure the length of the line part between two points on the line:

• Press button, then . The cursor will take the form of .

• Click at the point on the line (1), then at the second point of the same line (2) in a random sequence. The part of the line between the specified points will be measured (this part will be colored red).
• The measurement result for the size on the screen will be displayed in the left box of the table.

Measuring Distance Between Two Points Along Straight Line

In order to measure the distance between any two points along a straight line:

• Press , then . The cursor will take the form of.
• Click with the cursor crosshair at one point (1) and then click with the cursor crosshair at the other point (2). A red straight line will be drawn between the points (1) and (2) to show the measured parameter.
• The measurement result for the size on the screen will be displayed in the left box of the table.

Measuring Projections of Distance Between Points Onto X or Y Axis

In order to determine the projection of the measured distance between two points onto the X axis:

• Press button, then .

The cursor will take the form of.

• Click with the cursor crosshair at one point (1) and then click with the cursor crosshair at the second point (2). A red straight line will be drawn between points 1 and 2 to show the measured parameter.

• The measurement result for the size on the screen will be displayed in the left box of the table.
• The function of measuring the projection onto the Y axis is identical to that described above with the only difference that button needs to be used.

Displaying Lengths of Outline Sections

In order to display the lengths of all sections of a particular outline:

• Press button. The cursor will take the form of

• Set the cursor crosshair onto any point or line of the outline whose all sections lengths need to be displayed on the screen. This can be any outline: Ready View, Cut or Grain.

Data will be displayed for the size which is currently displayed on the screen.

• In order to remove the drawing of lengths from the screen, select the same command and click on this outline again.

Checking Line Length Ratio

In order to check the ratio of lengths of different lines, measure the length of one line with the “+” sign, and the other one with the “-“ sign.

For example, you need to measure the ratio of the front and back shoulder line lengths.

In order to do this:

• Press and buttons successively. The cursor will take the form of ; (you do not have to select button because it is automatically set when entering the addition ( ) or subtraction ( ) mode).
• Click with the cursor crosshair on the back section (1). The length of the seam between these points will be displayed in the left box of the table (with the plus sign);
• Press button. The cursor will take the form of ;
• Click with the cursor crosshair on the sections (2) and (3) on the front successively. The lengths of the second piece segments with the “-” sign will be added in the left box of the table.

The measurement result for the size on the screen will be displayed in the left box of the table, i.e. the difference between the lengths of the two sections with regard to the sign will be displayed.

Measurement result Lengths of measured sections

If the Size Base has been used for the project, it may be necessary to view the result of the same measurement for another size. To do this:

• Display the pieces in another size/ height/ width as required.

In order to do this, take the following actions:

1) Press button (initial data) of the button menu to enter the project initial data table. A data input table will be displayed on the screen:

2) Use the selection boxes to display the required size, height and width:

The data from the base are filled in when button in the upper right corner of the table is pressed.

Then, press the “Yes” button to confirm the selection.

• In order to display the drawing of the required size on the screen, select button in the left button menu of the program.
• In order to see the result of the measurements made for this size, press the button of result recalculation () (without deleting the measurement data with button).

Now, data for the new size will be recorded in the measurement result box.

Cut Outline Modification

After construction of seams on pieces, the external cut outline should be finished including construction of corners, hems, ledges, etc.

All outline modification functions are mainly intended for the “Cut” outline (although handling “Ready View” and “Operating Outline” is also possible).

Constructing Steps

A step which is used for ease of side aligning during stitching together is constructed based on the set seam width perpendicular to the specified side.

In order to construct a seam step:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of.

Or execute the “Piece(s)/Create step” menu item.

• Specify the section of the piece external outline, the seam step is to be constructed perpendicular to (1). Then specify the adjacent section (2). A window for setting seam parameters on the first specified section will be displayed where the required value needs to be input instead of the default one:

• Press the “OK” button to confirm the action.

If a variable seam has been constructed on the section, activate the switch () and input the seam parameters at the beginning and at the end of the section:

Constructing Corners

If the seam allowance is to reproduce the piece outline precisely when pressing, a so-called seam “corner” needs to be constructed (such seams are often used when designing items without lining where seams are to look neater). The corner should be constructed based on the set seam width, mirror wise to the forming side of the seam.

In order to construct a seam corner:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Piece(s)/Create corner” menu item.

• Specify the piece external outline section relative to which a seam corner needs to be constructed mirror wise (1). Then, specify the adjacent section (2). A window for setting parameters of the seam on the first specified section will be displayed, where the seam parameter needs to be input instead of the default one:

• Press the “OK” button to confirm the action.
• If a variable seam has been constructed on the section, activate the switch () and input the seam parameters at the beginning and at the end of the section:

Constructing “Fox Ear” Type Corners

“Fox Ear” is a corner cut based on the set width parameters of adjacent sections.

In order to construct a “Fox Ear” (a cut seam corner):

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Piece(s)/ ‘Fox Ear’” menu item.

• Specify the first corner section (1), and then the second one (2). A parameter setting window will be displayed on the screen where seam parameters need to be input instead of default values:

Apart from the standard “Fox Ear” construction, other construction modes can be selected in accordance with the proposed scheme: options for cutout of an allowance on seam extensions and on perpendiculars to seams; an option for corner cutting off at the specified offset value; options for corner rounding at the specified offset value or with the specified radius.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the action.

On the variable seam section, the switch should be activated () and seam parameters at the section beginning and end need to be input

Constructing Curved Cutouts

The function allows constructing a V-shape or П-shape cutout or a ledge of the set size normally to the specified point or in the set direction.

In order to perform the construction:

• Select the PIECES tab and button in it. The cursor will take the form of

Or you can execute the “Pieces/ Figured cutout” text menu item.

• Specify the point (1) on any outline. Then, the window of construction parameters will be displayed on the screen:

• Select the required construction type using or switch for the П-shape or V-shape cutout respectively
• Enter the cutout width and length. If a positive value is input, the cutout will be created inward the outline, if a negative value is input, a ledge outward the outline will be constructed.
• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the data.

A V-shape ledge can be constructed to create special outward notches on ravel-prone fabrics. A П-shape ledge can be used, for example, for aligning the piece edges and tacking when constructing stitching templates.

Sleeve cap notches Collar stitching template ledges

ADDITIONAL MODE:

In order to construct a curved cutout (or a ledge) in the specified direction, press the <CTRL> key on the keyboard after selecting the command button and specify the point (1) on any outline and the point (2), determining the direction. A window for inputting construction parameters is displayed on the screen and further actions are similar to operating in the general mode.

The construction can be used to create tacking pieces; for example, for tacking of the inclined pocket entrance.

Constructing Ledges

In order to construct a ledge based on two points on the piece cut outline:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Piece(s)/ Construct ledge” menu items.

• Specify 2 points of the section (1 and 2) successively where the ledge needs to be constructed. A ledge parameter window will be displayed on the screen where the ledge type and width need to be specified.

When the width parameter is set with the plus sign, the ledge will be constructed inward the detail; when a value with the minus sign is set, the ledge will be constructed outward.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the action.

A few construction options are possible:

Option #1:

If the “Normal line to limiting points” mode is activated, the ledge will be constructed perpendicular to the line of the ledge construction in points 1 and 2 (Fig. 1):

Option #2:

When the “Random/bevel/” parameter is activated, the intersection search window becomes active:

when the switch is activated at the beginning or at the end of the section respectively (in the direction of clicking along the outline), the ledge will not be constructed normally to this point (1), but the intersection of the two sections adjacent to this point will be found (Fig. 2).

Option #3:

When the switch in the width window () is activated (), a ledge of a variable width can be constructed by setting parameters in the first and second boxes for the beginning and the end of the section respectively.

Way 2 In order to construct a ledge from the point, take the following actions after the command has been selected:

• Double click with the cursor crosshair at the point (1) which the ledge needs to be constructed from in different directions.

A ledge parameter window will be displayed on the screen where the construction type and the ledge width should be set.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the action.

An additional window will be displayed () where the ledge lengths from the point (1) are to be input: clockwise in the “+”box and counterclockwise in the “–” box along the outline respectively.

Options for operating with “Direction” parameter:

• Normal line to the ledge central point:

Lateral sides of the ledge are perpendicular to the line in the central point.

2) Normal line to the limiting points:

Lateral sides of the ledge will be perpendicular to the line of the ledge in its terminal points.

1. Arbitrary construction:

When this switch is activated, a bevel will be constructed. For this purpose, the bevel parameter is to be specified in the windows of the section beginning or end respectively (clockwise):

Constructing Hems (One-Piece Hems)

In order to construct a bottom hem or a one-piece cuff:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Piece(s)/Construct cuff” menu item.

• Specify the piece section which is the bend line.

A hem parameter window will be displayed where you need to set the hem construction type, the number of hems and the hem width:

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the action.

For example:

1) In order to construct a conventional bottom hem 4cm in width, set the seam parameter 4 in the box; the other parameters should remain set by default. After the “Yes” button has been pressed, construction will be performed:

2) In order to construct a double hem, set the number of hems in the “Quantity of hems” box and press the “expand” button ():

After that a window will appear for setting the second width (the third, …) where hem parameters need to be input in sequence from the hem level:

After the “Yes” button has been pressed, construction will be performed.

3) If the “Tangent” mode in the “Symmetry” window is activated (), the hem lateral sides will be symmetrical relative to the tangent to the bottom line in the bend point (Fig. 1). If the “Chord” switch is activated, the hem lateral sides will be symmetrical relative to the straight line joining the hem points, i.e. chord wise (Fig. 2).

4) In order to construct a variable width cuff, set the switch to the variable width position in window. An additional window will appear in the cuff width parameter setting window. Input parameters for the section beginning and end in his additional window:

After the “Yes” button has been pressed, construction will be performed.

5) If a cuff does not need to be constructed at one end of the section (at center front seam (board), or a sleeve vent in case of further construction of the stitching corner, etc.), the construction parameter can be deactivated at the beginning or at the end of the section respectively:

In this case, a fold point will not be created, while the lines of the sections adjacent to the cuff will be extended to their intersection:

6) When constructing a hem, narrowing or widening parameters of its ends can be set by entering values with “+” (for widening) and “-” (for narrowing) in the “Widening” field:

Widening (narrowing) is performed along the tangent to the hem bottom line drawn in its terminal (corner) points. The value for the first corner point (clockwise around the outline) is entered into the first cell, while the value for the second end is entered into the second cell.

Constructing Ledges at Corners

In order to construct a ledge from a corner point of the outline:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Pieces(s)/ Corner ledge” text menu item.

• Specify the corner point (1) which will be the initial point for the construction.

A window will be displayed on the screen for setting parameters for the ledge.

Setting the length parameter with the “plus” sign provides clockwise construction, while that with the “minus” sign causes construction counterclockwise along the outline from the specified corner point.

Setting the width parameter with the “plus” sign determines construction of the ledge inward the outline, with the “minus” sign – outward.

Parameter window handling options:

1) If required, you can activate the switch next to the width box () and input a variable value of the ledge width by entering the necessary data in the first and second boxes for the beginning and the end of the ledge section respectively:

2) If a ledge with a slant needs to be constructed, input the slant parameter in the special box:

3) If (“Continue section”) parameter is deactivated, the section will not be extended, and a point will be constructed on the ledge fold (at the specified seam level).

If a turn up is to be added at the bottom later, after constructing a ledge (for example, for a sleeve vent), the introduced bend point will not allow performing this construction. In this case, the “Continue section” function should be activated.

Sleeve Vent Corner

In order to construct a stitching corner on a sleeve vent:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Piece(s)/Sleeve vent corner” menu item.

• Set the cursor crosshair onto the sleeve bottom line (1) and click the left mouse button
• Specify the sleeve vent line (2) and click the left mouse button.

A window will be displayed for setting parameters for constructing the vent stitching corner:

• Fill in the required parameters in the following manner: input the bottom hem parameter, the vent width (to the seam level) and the size of the corner stitching seam:
• Press the “Yes” button. Construction will be performed.

When this command is executed, it is essential that each of the lines (1 and 2) is represented by a single section (without additional terminal points)

Outline Building-Up

In order to decrease or increase the piece by a certain value on the seam construction principle (i.e. preserving the position angles of the forming sides:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Piece(s)/Build-up outline” menu item.

• Specify the section (1) which is to be displaced during the building up.
• A data input window will appear on the screen where the building-up value is to be set.

The sign is determined by the operating section movement direction: “plus” – inward the outline, “minus” – outward.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the data.

The section (1) will be displaced by the set amount while the sections (2 and 3) will be extended (shortened) without changing the angle of inclination.

Activate the width parameter switch for the variable value () and set the building up value for the section beginning and end respectively:

Cone

Seams need to be coned at the peak point at the set distance from the cut for the Cut outline with seam allowances laid off inward, especially for acute peaks of darts.

In order to construct a cone-shaped seam:

• Select the PIECES tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

You can also execute the “Pieces/ Cone” text menu items.

• Specify the dart peak (1) on the Operating main outline.
• Specify the direction setting side of the dart (2) on the Cut, or a separation section coming from the dart peak.
• A construction parameter window will be displayed on the screen:

• Input the parameters of the cone peak offset from the specified point of the Cut (1) in accordance with the scheme,

or parameters of the cone peak offset from the end of the separation section (2):

• When filling in the left cell of the input window, the width of the coning is entered. The specified offset will be set at its level:

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the data input.

This seam construction is performed only if the Ready view (seam) outline is derivative.

Parameters of the seams on the dart sides adjacent to the cone should be constructed with the “From normal line/To seam” and “From seam/To normal line” type for the exact matching of the seam with this construction.

Constructing Dart Opening

In order to construct a dart opening on the Cut outline:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Piece(s)/ Dart constructing” menu item.

• Specify the point on the main outline for the side of the dart pressing (1), the point of the dart second side (2) and then the dart center (3). A dart constructing option selection window will be displayed on the screen:

When pressing the “YES” key with the parameters, set in the window by default (without data changing) a standard Closed dart will be constructed.

The central point is set on the cut in such a way that when pressing the dart, its opening allowances follow the shape of the pressing side (symmetry relative to the section (1-3) of pressing)

When seam parameters are displayed on the screen (), the logo of this construction can be seen on the Cut.

This function is intended for construction on the derivative outline Cut only.

Depending on construction parameters, the following dart constructing options are possible:

• Construction of the edge on opened(split) dart

When the Dart end parameter (2) is activated, construction of the seam allowance of the set width on the cut sides is performed, and the cut end is constructed as a “Step”, “Intersection of adjacent sections” or “Corner”:

• Separation Section Dart End (8,9,10,11 and Option 12 – Incision Outline Type)

A separation section can be created at the end of the dart: a Crosshair with the specified offset from the end (9), a Crosshair of the set length (10) or To the intersection point of the cutout side equidistant lines (11) (the value is measured from the main outline). Do not construct crosshair (8) parameter is set by default.

When the “Cutting Line” (12) option is activated, the outline of the Cutting Line is created for automatic cutting instead of the Crosshair.

To perform construction, set the dart end parameter (2) and select the necessary modes:

• Split Dart Center Contraction Options (3,4,5,6,7)

In order to construct different variations of the split dart center construction, firstly, set the dart end parameter (2) and then select the necessary modes:

- In order to construct a variable seam on the sides of the split dart, activate the Dart end at curve intersection (4) parameter and the Variable curve width (7) option and then enter the seam width by filling the Dart end second parameter (6) cell

- In order to construct with an offset from the dart end, select the Dart end located at distance (5) mode and enter the offset in the Dart end second parameter (6) cell

- (6) In order to construct an allowance of the seam, contracted at the intersection point of equidistant lines of the set width from the dart sides, select the Dart end located at distance from dart line (3) parameter and enter the distance by filling the Dart end second parameter (6) cell

• Dart Types: Straight, Curved, Pleat (13), (14), (15)

- Straight Dart (13) constructing mode is automatically set in the parameter window . In this mode, the central dart point on the cut is set symmetrically relative to the straight section – the side of the dart pressing.

- The Curved Dart (14) constructing mode is used for darts with curved sides. In this mode, the dart central point on the cut is set symmetrically to the tangent at the terminal point drawn to the side of the dart pressing.

This mode is used if the dart sides are curved or polygonal lines (consist of 2 or 3 sections). For example, for a waist dart (vest, skirt or trousers waistband):

- The Pleat mode (15) is intended for setting central points of pleats on the Cut.

When the mode is selected, all the other setting switches in the window will be locked.

In order to perform the function, specify 3 points of the pleat on the main outline: a point at the dart pressing side (1), a point of the second side (2), and then – the center of the pleat (3). A parameter setting window will be displayed on the screen, where the third construction type – Pleat – should be selected.

(In this mode, the position of the third point does not matter, any point can be specified.)

Inverted Pleat Constructing

In order to set inverted pleat points on the cut for pressing, the following should be done:

• Select the PIECES tab and button in it. The cursor will take the form of.

Or execute the “Pieces/ Inverted pleat constructing” text menu items.

• Specify the first pleat central point of the cut (1) at the operating end
• Specify the second pleat central point of the cut (2) at the second end

A window for selecting the suitable pleat type will be displayed on the screen depending on the construction:

– parallel and cone pleat (2 openings are entered when creating the pleat);

– cone pleat (one of the openings is equal to zero when the pleat is created).

For the first specified point (1), central points of both halves of the inverted pleat are set with regard to their pressing to the pleat central line.

In the event of constructing a parallel and cone pleat, points should be set twice – at both ends of the pleat (specifying points 2 and 1 for setting of pleat second end points).

If (“Repeated command”) option is activated, it allows the function operation to continue at other piece points without a repeated displaying of the pleat type request window.

ATTENTION! Both central points of the pleat have to be of the terminal type.

When button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

Bezier Curve on Cut

The function of modification section deformation (construction of a vent, etc.) can be used for changing of the section shape right on the Cut outline.

In order to curve the shape of a section according to the “Bezier” curve type:

• Select the Pieces tab;
• Select command of the button menu or execute the “Piece(s)/ “Bezier” curve cut” menu item. The cursor of the program will take the form of .
• Use the cursor crosshair to indicate the section (1) which needs to be deformed. The section will be displayed on the screen as a line with 2 accessory sections (“arms”). You can rotate and move them to set the line bend angle and parameter.
• After the line shape has been defined, cancel the function by pressing the right mouse button. The new shape of the line will be fixed.

Constructing Corners and Steps Equal in Height

For pieces where corners and steps of different sizes relative to the piece overlapped with them are constructed due to their configuration, steps of the same size can be constructed.

(On pieces of the lower sleeve on the outside sleeve seam, the side back and front along princess seams)

ATTENTION

Commands for constructing corners and steps of the same height should be used for special configuration pieces mentioned above. Conventional construction of corners and steps should be performed for normal pieces.

General Procedure: In order to construct a corner or a step with the height equal to that of the corner or step on the second piece:

• Select the piece handling mode window
• Construct seams on the pieces.
• Arrange the pieces on the screen in such a way that the stitched cuts are located on the screen mirror wise.

This can be done using the “Mirror piece” function in the button menu after specifying the section of the rotated piece. A window of rotation options will be displayed on the screen where you need to select rotation relative to the vertical or horizontal line.

• Using commands for standard construction of steps or corners , perform constructions on the piece which will be used for construction aligning (for example, on the upper sleeve along the outside seam).

or

• Select the corner or step construction command as per the second piece in the button menu upper panel (for example, construct a corner or step on the lower sleeve on the outside sleeve seam which is equal in height to the corner or step on the upper sleeve) click the left mouse button at points 1,2,3,4 on the ready view outline of both pieces successively.

When the left mouse button of the relevant commands is pressed in the sequence described above, steps and corners are constructed in three variations:

Corner as per Second Piece

Execute command of the button menu or execute the “Piece(s)/ Corner as per second piece” menu item and click the left mouse button in lines 1, 2, 3, 4 in the sequence described above. As a result, for example, constructing a corner on the lower sleeve piece equal to the corresponding section of the upper sleeve in its height (i.e. as if for pressing the seam to the upper sleeve side).

Aligned Step as per Second Piece

Execute command of the button menu or execute the “Piece(s)/ Aligned step as per second piece” menu item and click the left mouse button in lines 1, 2, 3, 4 in the sequence described above. As a result, for example, constructing a step on the lower sleeve piece equal to the corresponding section of the upper sleeve in its height and configuration.

Aligned Corner as per Second Piece

Execute command of the button menu or execute the “Piece(s)/ Aligned corner as per second piece” menu item and click the left mouse button in lines 1, 2, 3, 4 in the sequence described above. As a result , for example, constructing a corner on the lower sleeve piece equal to the corresponding section of the upper sleeve in its height and configuration (as if for the seam pressing to the lower sleeve piece itself).

Making (Deleting) Notches on Cut

In order to make (or delete) a notch on allowances and modifications of the Cut outline:

Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of . Or execute the “Pieces/ Make (Delete) notch on cut” text menu items.

• Specify the point on the Cut outline (1) where a notch is to be introduced.
• To continue the function operation, specify the next point of the cut; and to stop the command performing, click the right mouse button.

• If there has been a notch at the Cut point, it is deleted when this function is performed.

This function is intended for operating with the CUT outline only.

Inserting Notches on Cut

When operating with allowances and modifications of the Cut-type outline, this function allows inserting a notch at the set distance from the point or in a ratio on the section.

In order to insert a notch on the Cut outline:

Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of . Or execute the “Pieces/ Insert notch on cut” text menu items. Mode 1:

In order to insert a notch at the set distance from a particular point:

• Specify the point on the Cut outline (1) for the notch to be inserted at a distance from it.
• A data input window will be displayed on the screen in the “Insert at distance” mode.

• Enter the value of the offset from the specified point instead of the default value.

The entry sign (“+” or “–”) determines the positive (clockwise) or negative direction of the outline rounding respectively.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the parameter input.

Mode 2:

In order to insert a notch on a Cut section which will divide the section in the set ratio:

• Specify the section on the Cut outline (1) where the notch needs to be inserted.
• A data entry widow where the “Divide in ratio” mode is activated automatically will be displayed on the screen.

• Input the ratio value instead of the default value.

The ratio will be measured from the section starting point (clockwise).

ATTENTION! When inputting nonlinear values (coefficients, shares, parts) in the program, they must be recorded in square brackets.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the parameter input.

Point at Intersection with Line

In order to insert a point on the Cut outline at the intersection with a line of other outlines:

Select the SEAMS tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of. Or execute the “Seams/ Point at intersection with line…” text menu items.

• Specify the section (1) on the Cut
• Specify the section (2) on the outline, whose intersection is to be found.

A notch will be obtained on the Cut outline.

Points Normally to Line

This function allows constructing a point on a Cut section located on the normal line drawn from the specified point of the main outline. In order to insert a point on the Cut normally to a line:

Select the PIECES tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of. Or execute the “Pieces/ Point normally to line” text menu items.

• Specify the point (1) on the main outline which the perpendicular will be drawn from.
• Specify the section on the Cut outline (2) where the point is to be inserted. Then, a notch will appear on the cut (with the screen logo of this modification).
• In order to continue execution of the function, specify the next pair of elements; to stop the function operation, click the right mouse button.

Moving Points Along XY

When operating with allowances and modifications of the Cut-type outline, this function allows moving a point by a set distance along the axes relative to the point initial position.

In order to displace a point of the Cut outline along axes:

Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of . Or execute “Pieces/ Shift point along XY” text menu items.

• Specify the point (1) on the Cut
• A data entry window for displacement parameters will be displayed:

• Enter the displacement value in DХ and DУ cells from the keyboard and press the central button – to confirm it. The point movement will be shown on the screen (red line).

• The displacement value can be also obtained by means of pressing arrow buttons: the point will move in increments in the appropriate direction on the screen and the DХ and DY cells will be filled in automatically.

The increment value can be changed in the Increment cell.

Press the “Yes” button to confirm the set movement.

Moving Points in Direction of

When operating with allowances and modifications of the Cut-type outline, this function allows shortening (extending) sections along their direction.

In order to shift the Cut terminal point along the section:

Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of . Or execute the “Pieces/Displace point in direction of…” text menu items.

• Specify the section (1) near the terminal point (2) which its movement will be set along. Thus, the displacement vector is specified.
• A data input window will appear on the screen where the “Insert at distance” mode is activated automatically.

• Input the value of the offset from the specified point instead of the default value.

The input value sign (“+” or “–”) determines the point movement direction: in or against the direction of the movement vector. If the section is to be extended, the displacement value will be positive, if it is to be shortened, the value will be negative.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm the parameter input.

Setting Cut Points Vertically (Horizontally)

When operating with allowances and modifications of the Cut-type outline, this function allows setting a point vertically (horizontally) relative to the specified point.

In order to set a point of the Cut outline vertically:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of. Or execute “Pieces/ Set cut point vertically (horizontally)” text menu items.

• Specify the point (1) which the point of the Cut will be set relative to.
• Specify the point to be shifted on the Cut (2). It will be shifted to the same vertical line with the first specified point

SECOND MODE:

In order to set the point of the Cut outline horizontally to the specified point, perform the same actions while holding the <CTRL> key on the keyboard down. This key is to be pressed immediately after selection of the command button.

• In order to stop the function execution, click the right mouse button.

Cancelling Performed Modifications

All performed modifications of the cut outline can be visualized on the screen by selecting the “Display seam parameters” command () of the element visibility and sensitivity block. Then, corresponding logos will appear on the screen in the positions where modifications have been made on the piece.

If you need to undo a cut outline modification performed:

• Select the Pieces tab and button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of .

Or execute the “Pieces/ Delete one modification command” menu item.

• Indicate the logo of the modification to be deleted precisely with the cursor crosshair.

Sending Pieces to Print (Plotter or Printer)

You can printout from the drawing handling window or piece handling window . A special sheet is displayed in each of these windows.

In order to send a drawing or a piece to the plotter, you should set drawing parameters first, and then complete the drawing sheet on the screen.

In the program, you can send data to the printer directly, as well as to the plotter job base (i.e. to the plotter control program ) for CAD industrial versions. You should select the output type in the settings by means of setting the appropriate switch.

In order to go to the setting mode, select command of the button menu. A setting window will be displayed on the screen where you should switch to the Plotter tab:

Printing Drawings and Pieces on Printer

A drawing or pieces can be either sent to the printer in the screen size or the entire image or the specified area can be output in the real size – on a few marked A4 sheets for their further adhesion. Single-page or multi-page output is possible.

When sending to the printer or plotter directly, sheet parameters are read by the program from the device driver, and they do not need to be set purposely.

In order to print a drawing or pieces on a printer:

• Set the type of printout in the settings ( button).

• Specify the output type: on a single or several sheets ( switch).

• Specify the output size. Pieces can be sent to the printer in the real size or screen-size:

Drawings and pieces can be sent to printout not only in real size (1 : 1) but in the set size as well. For example 1 : 4 ratio allows outputting a drawing in the size of drafting with the design scale ruler

For multi-page output, as well as on the plotter, pieces can be printed real size only.

• Saving settings. Press YES for a single use of the selected settings (until exiting the Constructor program). SAVE – to save the settings for their further use. CANCEL – to close the setting window without saving the changes.
• Sending pieces to print. When pieces need to be printed real size on the printer, select button and specify the piece. It will be automatically divided into sheets and sent to print. You can also use button to select the area for printing. When pieces are printed in a particular scale, retrieve the sheet , arrange pieces on it and press . In this case, the size of the sheet is determined by the printer installed on your computer.

The elements (outlines) whose visibility is activated will be drawn on the pieces.

NOTE

In order to save and send a print sheet of the printer in the electronic form (in PDF format), you can install a “virtual printer” (for example, using DoPDF program). In this case, when you send a completed sheet to print (), specify the file storage path:

Adobe Acrobat Reader needs to be installed on the machine for reading PDF files.

Drafting Drawings or Pieces on Plotter

If the program is used as part of the CAD industrial version, and information is sent to the plotter job base; the “BASE VERSIONS 4x” output mode is active.

In order to draft a drawing or pieces on the plotter:

• Specify the sheet for drawing. Set the type of sending to the plotter in the settings ( button). Set the sheet length and width.

• Select the input mode: draw – if pieces will be drawn; draw and cut – if they will be cut on a cutting plotter (in this case, outlines with drawing parameters will be drawn, while those with cutting parameters will be cut).

- pencil and knife numbers are set in accordance with the plotter manual.

• If necessary, set other sheet parameters for drawing:

- use this parameter to change the size (set coefficient 0.5) or mirror the drawing job (set coefficient 1.0).

- displacing the sheet when drawing from the edge of the paper.

- the “Operating” and “Shadow” outlines are not drawn. If the “Cut” is the main outline on the piece, the “Operating” outline appears under it automatically (the cut is reconstructed from it). These two outlines replicate each other and the plotter will draw both outlines (the same lines will be drawn twice).

- setting a particular size of points on the drawing during the drawing process.

- editing the inscription on pieces

- In order to printout pieces with an allowance added around the piece outline (the so-called Rough Pieces or Blanks). Tick the “Form rough cutting” switch. In the “Increase value” field, input the offset value with “-” sign in order to set the offset outward (or “+” for the inward offset). Parameters should be entered in the same measurement units that are set for the whole operation in the project. Rough cutting will be set for all pieces on the screen at a time. Select [[Image:]] command of the button menu. An outline of the “Inner outline” type will be created around each piece with the all-round offset by a set value. All points and notches will be automatically transferred to this outline from the main outline.

• Saving settings. Press YES for a single use of the selected settings (until exiting the Design program). SAVE – to save the settings for their further use. CANCEL – to close the setting window without saving the changes.

• Displaying the sheet on the screen – button.
• Arrange the drawing or pieces on the sheet. When in mode, use to move the drawing. In mode position the pieces manually using functions to move pieces on the screen.
• Produce a drawing sheet. Press . A window will be displayed on the screen where you need to set the sheet name and press YES.

The sheets set for drawing are shaped into a list in program PIECES mode.

Enqueue the drawing job in the plotter program and press “Draw”.

NOTE

1. The elements (outlines) whose visibility is activated will be drawn on the drawing and pieces.

1. When drawing on the plotter, set the “Correction factor” on Y equal to “-1” for DRAWING (not pieces) in the settings at once. Otherwise, the image will be rotated mirror wise horizontally.

1. When drafting a drawing on the plotter, an explanatory text () is also printed

Producing HPGL-Files

The program allows producing an HPGL file in order to send it to other enterprises for drawing. In order to do this:

• Set the piece output type in the PLOTTER tab of the program setting window
• Adjust the file production settings:

1) - Measurement factor. This parameter depends on a particular plotter.

2) - Setting the positive direction of axes when drawing the file.

3) - Setting the initial point for drawing.

4) Setting the sheet length and width

5) After drawing parameters are set, they need to be saved.

YES – for a single use of the parameters (until exiting the program).

SAVE – to save the parameters for the next program run.

CANCEL – to close the setting window without saving the set parameters.

• Display the drawing sheet on the screen () and position pieces on it.

• Select command to produce the drawing sheet

An HPGL file will be produced automatically and a window will be displayed for setting its storage location. Select a folder on one of the disks in the “Folder” window (or create a new empty folder ) and double click to open it. Then, set the file name in the “File Name” window by entering it instead of *, and press the SAVE button to confirm the data input.

Transferring Projects from One Base to Another (EXPORTING/ IMPORTING Projects)

Construction projects are stored in the base on the server. If necessary, they can be sent from one base to another.

In order to perform the project EXPORT operation (copying from the base):

• Retrieve the project which is to be exported so that it is displayed on the screen;
• Select the “Project/ Export” menu item.
• All projects of a selected group can be exported together instead of exporting them one by one.

Select a group of projects in the “Group” field. All projects of the group will be automatically selected for exporting.

In order to select individual projects, select the necessary line or several lines while holding the left mouse button down.

• Execute the “Export” command. A window will be displayed on the screen for setting the path of the export file (with dxp extension):

If a single project of a group has been selected for exporting, a window will be displayed for setting the path of the export file where a disk and a particular folder for storage need to be selected (created beforehand). The names of export files are recorded manually.

If two or more projects, or a whole group, have been selected for exporting, a window for setting the path of the export files will also be displayed on the screen. Here, files are named automatically, based on the project name.

• When projects of a group are selected line by line, while holding the <CTRL> key down, selection of a few projects from the group is performed.

ATTENTION! To ensure correct execution of the export function, the names of projects should not contain any quotation marks («»), colons (:) and exclamation marks (!).

In order to perform a project IMPORT operation (copying to the base):

• Select the “Project/ Import” menu item.

Specify the location the project is to be imported from in the imported project selection window:

After the selection has been confirmed using the “Open” button, the following window will be displayed:

• The inscription of the project (as it was named when exporting) is already displayed in the “Name” field and can be changed here.
• Fill in the “Groups” field to input the name of the group where the project belongs to
• The “Size Base” field is already filled in. The name of the actual base where the project has been performed is input in it (in the locked mode). If the Size Base is the same for both bases, all you need to do is to activate this switch.

Attention If projects are imported to a system which does not have such Size Base, or all grading is reset to zero, or, if the Size Base name coincides accidentally, only the denominations common for both Size Bases will be read.

Therefore, the sequence of importing projects from totally different bases (from one enterprise to another, etc.) is essential: firstly, the size base needs to be imported, and then the project itself.

• Press the “Yes” button to confirm or “Cancel” to cancel the function performing.

The imported project will be displayed on the screen.

• Select the “Project/ Save” menu item or press button to save the project.
• If the project name already exists in the base, a message will be displayed on the screen to inform about it and the import operation will not be performed. You have to either change the name for importing, or delete the project having the same name from the base first.

Exporting Pieces

The “Design” program enables transferring ready pieces to the constructor program to handle them as industrial pieces and export them in the DXF format.

Export (Julivi)

ATTENTION! Julivi complex comprises 2 versions of the “Constructor” program: the older version 3-x and the new version 4-x.

Export (DXF)

In order to export pieces in the DFX format:

• Select the “Project/ Export” main menu item.

A query window will be displayed on the screen where the necessary pieces need to be selected with “ticks”.

• Press to transfer some selected pieces or to transfer all pieces in the list, irrespective of whether they are selected or not.
• Press Cancel to exit the export window.
• The window for setting the file storage path will be displayed on the screen where you need to specify the location for the produced DXF files to be stored.