Constructor:Contour modifications

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Step

The step (which is used for convenience of side aligning when stitching) is constructed based on the set seam width perpendicular to the specified side. In order to construct a seam step:

  • Select the SEAMS tab and embim2773.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form ofembim2774.png. “Seams/Create a step” text menu items can also be executed.
  • Specify the section of the Cut (1), the seam step is to be constructed perpendicular to
  • Specify the second section (2), adjoining the first one. Then, a data input window will be displayed where the width of the seam on the first specified section is to be entered.
embim2775.png 
  • Press (“Yes”) button to confirm the data input and (“CANCEL”) to cancel.
embim2776.png 

On the variable seam section, the option should be activated (embim2777.png), and data are to be entered at the beginning and at the end of the section:

embim2778.png 

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created

Construct a corner

Corner   

If the seam allowance is to reproduce the piece outline precisely when pressing, a “corner” is constructed. This seam is used when constructing items without lining where seams are to look neater. A corner is created based on the specified seam width, the mirror-reflected forming side of the seam. In order to construct a seam corner:

  • Select the SEAMS tab and embim2779.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2780.png.

      “Seams/Create a corner” text menu items can also be executed.

  • Specify the cut section (1), relative to which a seam corner is to be constructed mirror-reflected (1).
  • Specify the adjoining section (2). Then, a data input window will be displayed, where the width of the seam on the first specified section is to be entered.
embim2781.png   
  • Press (“Yes”) button to confirm the data input and (“CANCEL”) to cancel.

On the variable seam section, the option should be activated (embim2782.png), and data are to be entered at the beginning and at the end of the section:   

embim2783.png

When  [[Image:]] button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

«Fox ear»

 “Fox Ear” construction is a corner cut as per the set width parameters of adjoining sections. In order to construct a “Fox Ear”:

  • Select the SEAMS tab and embim2784.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2785.png.   

“Seams/ ‘Fox Ear’” text menu items can also be executed.

  • Specify the first (1) section of the Cut and the second (2) adjoining section (clockwise).  

A window is displayed on the screen where values are to be entered instead of default ones:

embim2786.png
  • To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button.
embim2787.png
Apart from the standard “Fox Ear” construction, other construction designs can be selected: cutout of an allowance on seam continuation and perpendiculars to seams; corner cutting of with the specified offset value; corner rounding with the specified offset value or with the specified radius.

On the variable seam section, the option should be activated (embim2788.png), and data are to be entered at the beginning and at the end of the section    

embim2789.png

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

FEATURES: 1. Sections (1, 2) are to be specified next to their common terminal point.


2. Sections are to be specified clockwise, especially on open inner outlines.  

Construct a Ledge

In order to construct a ledge based on two points on the piece cut outline:

  • Select the SEAMS tab and embim2790.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2791.png.

      “Seams/Construct a ledge” text menu items can also be executed.

  • Successively specify 2 points of the section (1 and 2) where the ledge is to be constructed.

·         A parameter window is displayed on the screen where the ledge type and width are to be specified. 

embim2792.png

      When specifying the width parameter with the plus sign, the ledge will be constructed inward the detail; when setting a value with the minus sign, the ledge will be constructed outward.

·         To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press(“CANCEL”) button.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

Construction Options:

    Option #1:  

In the “Normal line to limiting points” mode, the ledge is perpendicular to the line in points 1 and 2:

embim2793.png

 

 

Option #2:

In the “Random/ bevel/” mode, intersection searching options are active (embim2794.png): when activating the option at the beginning (1) or at the end (2) of the section (in the order of point specification), the intersection of the two sections adjacent to this point will be found.  

      The appearance of the window in the mode depends on the type of the specified points: Terminal or Intermediate point. For Intermediate points a bevel value window is displayed instead of intersection options. This is because there is no intersection of adjacent sections in such a point.

 
embim2795.png


Option #3:

When the switch in the width window (embim2796.png) is activated (embim2797.png), a ledge of a variable width can be constructed by setting parameters in the first and second windows for the beginning and the end of the section. 


Way 2

 

                             In order to construct a ledge from the point on the Cut outline:

  • Select the SEAMS tab and embim2798.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2799.png.

      “Seams/Construct a ledge” text menu items can also be executed.

  • Specify the initial point (1) for the construction by double pressing the left mouse button.
  • The parameter window is displayed on the screen where the construction type and the ledge width are to be entered.
embim2800.png;   embim2801.png

In the additional window (embim2802.png) parameters of the ledge length from the point (1) are to be set: clockwise in the “+” window and counterclockwise in the “–” window along the outline.

·         To confirm the data input, press «Да» (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button.

Options for operating with “Direction” parameter:

1)       “Normal line to the ledge central point”

Lateral sides of the ledge are perpendicular to the line in the central point.

2)  “Normal line to the limiting points”:

Lateral sides of the ledge are perpendicular to the line of the ledge in its terminal points.

3)       “Arbitrary construction”:

When this switch is activated, a bevel will be constructed. For this purpose, in the windows of the section beginning or end respectively (clockwise), the bevel value is to be specified:

embim2803.png embim2804.png

Figured Cutout

The function allows constructing a V-shape or П-shape cutout or a ledge of the set size on the normal line to the specified point or in a set direction. For this purpose:

·           Select the SEAMS tab and embim2805.png  button in it. The cursor will take the form of embim2806.png

       “Seams/ Figured cutout” text menu items can also be executed.

·           Specify the point (1) on any outline. Then, the window of construction parameters is displayed on the screen:

embim2807.png

·           Select the required construction type by activating the П-shape embim2808.pngor V-shape embim2809.pngcutout option  

·           Enter the cutout width and length: “+” – a cutout inward from the outline, “-” – a ledge outward from the outline.

·           To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button.

·           When “Repeated function” option is activated, the same ledge is created in all the specified points.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

 

A V-shape ledge can be used for creating outward notches on ravel-prone fabrics. A П-shape ledge can be used for aligning the piece cut with the stitching template.

 

 embim2810.png embim2811.png

    In order to construct a figured ledge in the specified direction, press the  <CTRL> key on the keyboard after selecting the command and specify point (1) and point (2), determining the direction. Further actions are similar to operating in the general mode.

embim2812.png

The construction can be used for tacking pieces (tacking of the inclined pocket entrance, etc.).

Construct a Corner Ledge

In order to construct a ledge from an outline corner point:

·         Select the SEAMS tab and  embim2813.png  в button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2814.png.

     “Seams/ Corner ledge” text menu items can also be executed.

·         Specify corner point (1) of the piece.

A data entry window is displayed on the screen where the ledge parameters are to be entered:

embim2815.png embim2816.png

 

Length: “plus” –constructing clockwise, “minus” – constructing counterclockwise from the point.

Width: “plus” –constructing the ledge inward from the outline, “minus” – constructing outward.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

 

Parameter window handling variants:

1)      When the option is activated  (embim2817.png), the variable value of the ledge width can be introduced by entering data in the first and second windows respectively for the beginning and the end of the ledge section:

embim2818.png         

2)    In order to create a ledge with a bevel, the bevel parameter is to be entered in  embim2819.png window.

3)     If embim2820.png (“Continue the Section”) parameter is deactivated, the section will not be continued, and a point will be constructed on the ledge bend (at the specified seam level).

embim2821.png

If a turn up is to be added on at the bottom later, after constructing a ledge (for example, for a sleeve vent), the introduced bend point will not allow performing this construction. In this case, the “Continue the Section” function is to be activated.

Constructing a Turn Up (fold)

In order to construct a turn up, a bottom hem seam allowance or a one-piece cuff, the following should be done:

  • Select the SEAMS tab and embim2822.png  button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2823.png.

      “Seams/Cuff” text menu items can also be executed.

  • Specify the piece section – the line of the cuff or bend fold. 
  • A turndown parameter window is displayed on the screen where the type of the turn up construction, the number of turn up and the turn up width need to be specified:
        embim2824.png

To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

 

 

E.g.:

1) In order to construct a standard bottom turn up 4cm in width, the seam parameter 4, is to be set in embim2825.png window; default values are to be left for the other parameters.

embim2826.png

2) In order to construct a double turn up , the number of turnups is to be entered in embim2827.png window, and embim2828.png button is to be pressed. In the window for setting the second, third, etc. width, the values of the turn up are to be entered in sequence from the turndown level

embim2829.pngembim2830.png

3) In the “Tangent” mode of the “Symmetry or mirror” window (embim2831.png), the turn up lateral sides are symmetrical to the upper part relative to the tangent to the bottom line in the bend point.

In the “Chord” mode, the turndown lateral sides are symmetrical to the upper part relative to the straight line (chord) joining the turndown points.

embim2832.png

4) In order to construct a variable width cuff, the variable width mode with an additional window is to be activated inembim2833.png window and parameters of the section beginning and end (clockwise along the outline)

embim2834.pngembim2835.png

5) If construction is not required at one end of the section (for example, on the sleeve vent for the further construction of the stitching corner, etc.), the construction parameter can be deactivated at the beginning or at the end of the section respectively: embim2836.png


In this case a bend point will not be created, while the lines of the sections adjacent to the cuff will be prolonged to their intersection:

 
embim2837.png


6) When constructing a hem, narrowing or widening values of its ends can be set by entering values with “+” (for widening) and “–” (for narrowing) in the “Widening” field:

embim2838.png embim2839.png

Widening (narrowing) is performed along the tangent to the hem bottom line in the terminal (corner) points. The value for the first corner point is entered into the left cell while the value for the second end is entered into the right cell.

 

Sleeve Vent Corner

In order to construct a stitching corner (for example, on a sleeve vent):

·         Select the SEAMS tab embim2840.png  button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2841.png.

      “Seams/Sleeve vent corner” text menu items can also be executed.

·         Specify the first section (1), for example, the sleeve bottom line

·         Specify the second (adjacent) section (2), for example, the sleeve vent line

·         A data entry window is displayed on the screen where parameters should be entered in the following manner: enter the bottom turn up value, vent width (to the seam level) and the size of the corner stitching seam:

           embim2842.png              embim2843.png

·          To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

ATTENTION! Specified lines (1, 2) are to be a single section, without any other Terminal points.

Outline Building-Up

Outline Building-Up In order to decrease/ increase the piece length or width while preserving the inclination of its adjacent sides: ·         Select the SEAMS tab andembim2844.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2845.png.

      “Seams/Build-up the outline ” text menu items can also be executed.

·         Specify section (1) which is to be moved.  

·         A parameter window will appear on the screen where the building-up value is to be set.

embim2846.png

The sign is determined by the section movement direction: “plus” – inward from the outline, “minus” – outward.  

·         To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button.

    Section (1) will be shifted while adjacent sections (2 and 3) will be prolonged (shortened) without changing the angle of inclination.

embim2847.png

·         When the variable width switch is activated (embim2848.png), different values can be entered for the beginning and the end of the building-up section (clockwise along the outline):

embim2849.png]embim2850.png

Whenembim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

Cone

In dart vertexes it is often necessary to cone the seam at a set distance from the Cut. This function is intended for constructing on the seam derivative outline – Finished view only.

In order to construct the seam as a cone:

·         Select the SEAMS tab and embim2851.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2852.png.

      “Seams/Cone” text menu items can also be executed.

·         Specify the dart peak (1) on the Operating main outline.

·         Specify the side of the dart (2) on the Cut, or a separation section coming from the dart peak.

       A construction parameter window will appear on the screen:

embim2853.png

·         Enter the parameters of the cone vertex offset from the specified point of the Cut (1) in accordance with the figure

embim2854.png

      or parameters of the cone vertex offset from the end of the separating section (2):

embim2855.png

·         When filling the left cell of the input window, the width of the coning is entered. The specified offset will be laid off from it:

embim2856.png

·         To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press “CANCEL”) button.  

Parameters of the seams on the dart sides adjacent to the cone should be constructed with the “From the normal line/To the seam” and “From the seam/To the normal line” type for the exact matching of the seam with this construction.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the seam can be seen on the screen.

Dart Constructing

In order to construct a dart opening on the Cut outline:

·         Select the SEAMS tab and embim2857.png  button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2858.png.

      “Seams/Dart constructing” text menu items can also be executed.

·         Specify the point on the main outline at for the side of the dart pressing (1)

·         Specify the point of the dart second side (2)

·         Specify the point of the dart center (3).

·         After that, the dart constructing option selection window is displayed.

 
embim2859.png

When pressing the (“YES”) key with parameters, set in the window by default (without data changing) a standard Closed dart will be constructed.

 

embim2860.png

The central point is set on the cut in such a way that when pressing the dart, its opening allowances follow the shape of the pressing side (symmetry relative to section (1-3) of pressing)


When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

This function is intended for construction on the derivative outline Cut only.

Depending on construction parameters, the following dart designing variants are possible:

embim2861.png

·         Split Dart End Constructing

When Dart end parameter (2) is activated, construction of the seam allowance of the set width on the cut sides is performed, as well as Constructing of the cut end as a “Step”, “Intersection of adjacent sections” or “Corner”:


embim2862.png
 

·         The cutting section at the end of the dart (8,9,10,11 and option 12 –the incision outline type) embim2863.png A cutting section can be created at the end of the dart: a Crosshair with the specified offset from the end (9), a Crosshair of the set length (10) or To the intersection point of the cutout side equidistant lines (11) (the value is measured from the main outline). Do not construct crosshair (8) parameter is set by default.

When “Cutting Line” (12) option is activated, the outline of the Cutting line is created for automatic cutting instead of the Crosshair.

    For construction set the dart end parameter (2) and select the necessary modes:


·         Split dart center contraction options (3,4,5,6,7)

In order to construct different variations of the split dart center contraction, firstly, set the dart end parameter (2) and then select the necessary modes:

 
embim2864.pngembim2865.png

In order to construct a variable seam on the sides of the split dart, activate Dart end at the curve intersection (4) parameter and Variable curve width (7) option and then enter the seam width by filling Dart end second parameter - (6) cell

embim2866.pngembim2867.png

 

 - In order to construct with an offset from the dart end, select Dart end located at distance (5) mode and enter the offset in Dart end second parameter (6) cell

 embim2868.pngembim2869.png

 - In order to construct an allowance of the seam, contracted at the intersection point of equidistant lines of the set width from the dart sides, select Dart end located at distance from dart line (3) parameter and enter the distance by filling Dart end second parameter (6) cell

 embim2870.png

·         Dart Types: Straight, Figured, Pleat (13), (14), (15)

-  Straight Dart (13) Constructing mode is automatically set in the parameter window. In this mode, the central dart point on the cut is set symmetrically relative to the straight section – the side of the dart pressing.

 

- Curved Dart (14) embim2871.png designing mode is used for darts with curved lines sides. In this mode, the dart central point on the cut is set symmetrically to the tangent at the terminal point drawn to the side of the dart pressing.     


      This mode is used if the dart sides are figured or polygonal lines (consist of 2-3 sections). For example, for a waist dart (vest, skirt or trousers waistband):

     - Pleat mode (15)
 embim2872.png
 is intended for setting central points of pleats on the Cut.

    In order to perform the function, specify 3 points of the pleat on the main outline: a point at the dart pressing side (1), a point of the second side (2), and then – the center of the pleat (3).   A parameter setting window is displayed on the screen, where the third construction type – Pleat is to be selected.

 embim2873.png

 (In this mode, the position of the third point does not matter, any point can be specified.)

Inverted Pleat Designing

After an inverted pleat has been created (embim2874.png function – “Modeling/ Widen+ Spread” or other functions), the pleat terminal points should be designed by setting them with regard to pressing.

In order to set inverted pleat points on the cut for pressing, the following is to be done:

  • Select the SEAMS tab and embim2875.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2876.png.

          “Seams/ Inverted pleat designing” text menu items can also be executed.

  • Specify the first pleat central point (1) on the cut at the operating end
  • Specify the second pleat central point (2) on the cut at the second end

      The pleat type selection window is displayed on the screen depending on the construction:

embim2877.png

embim2878.png – parallel and cone pleat (2 openings are entered when creating the pleat);

embim2879.png – cone pleat (one of the openings is equal to zero when creating the pleat).

embim2880.png

     For the first specified point (1), central points of both halves of the inverted pleat are set with regard to their pressing to the pleat central line.

 
embim2881.png


     In the event of constructing a parallel and cone pleat, points should be set twice –at both ends of the pleat (specifying points 2 and 1 for pleat second end points setting).

     If embim2882.png (“Repeated command”) option is activated, it allows the function operation to continue at other piece points without a repeated displaying of the pleat type request window.

ATTENTION! Both central points of the pleat are to be of the terminal type.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen. When the function is performed on the main or any other outline, the construction logo is not created.

«Bezier» curve

To provide the construction section deformation of Bezier curve type:

·         Select the SEAMS tab and embim2883.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2884.png.

      “Seams/ Bezier curve on the cut” text menu items can also be executed.

·         Specify section (1) which is to be deformed.

·         2 accessory sections (“arms”) appear on the section. Having indicated one of them with the cursor and holding the left mouse button pressed, move the arms, changing the line angle and flexion to obtain the required curving.

·         After the line shape has been defined, cancel the function by pressing the right mouse button. The new line shape will be fixed.

embim2885.png

This function allows curving sections on the Cut outline modifications (Steps, Corners, etc.).

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

 

Constructing corners and indents equal by height

Aligned Constructions

For pieces with pointed corners (main outline – Finished view), steps and corners on the Cut are constructed with different size relative to the piece superimposed with it (for example, on lower sleeve details along the outside seam, back sides and forepart sides along the princess seam, i.e. if there is a sharp angle between sections).

Steps and corners are to be constructed for such pieces. They should be aligned with the other piece high wise.

ATTENTION! Commands of the aligned steps/cornersembim2886.png are to be applied for the above said special configuration pieces only.

 

General procedure:

In order to construct a corner or a step with the height equal to that of the corner or step on the second patter:

  • Construct seams on the pieces.
  • Arrange the pieces on the screen in such a way that the stitched cuts are located on the screen in the mirrored position. For this purpose, the pieces should be re-sorted in the base or on the screen (embim2887.png function – “Piece/ Re-Sort” or embim2888.png   function of the on-screen menu).                    
  • Using commands for standard construction of steps embim2889.png  or corners embim2890.png , perform constructions on the piece which will be used for the piece aligning (for example, upper sleeve outside seam).
embim2891.png
·         Select the SEAM tab and one of the three buttons embim2892.png  in this tab. You can also execute items of the “Seams/ Corner as per the second piece”, “Seams/Aligned step as per the second piece”, or “Seams/Aligned corner as per the second piece” text menu.

·         Specify 4 sections (1,2,3,4) subsequently on the main outline – Finished view of both pieces.

For example, a corner or a step is to be constructed on the lower sleeve at the outside seam, equal to the corner or a step on the upper sleeve in its height:

embim2893.png

  As a result of the function performing, steps and corners are constructed in three variants: ADDITIONAL MODE: If a step/corner is changed (or deleted) on the base piece, constructions of “Aligned steps/corners” will be automatically reconstructed (or deleted). For this purpose, special setting “Control aligned constructions” (“Setting/ Program parameters” text menu items, GENERAL/Constructor tab) is to be activated,

  
embim2895.png

On the base piece for the aligning the activated control symbol (embim2896.png ) will appear next to the grain.

embim2897.png

     The control can be deactivated for a particular piece, as well as any other modification of the Cut:

Select embim2898.png  “Seams/ Delete one modification command” function and click the control logo on the screen. Now, when the base piece is changed (for example, the upper sleeve), the aligned construction will not change automatically, and manual seam reconstruction will be required instead.

     For total control deactivation, the option is to be deactivated in the “Program settings” window

     After the piece sorting in the base vertically/horizontally (embim2899.png - “Piece/Re-sort”, the construction will take an incorrect form and will have to be reconstructed manually, because aligned constructions require a certain arrangement of pieces on the screen.

NOTE Modification reconstruction is impossible, if the base piece for measurement is deleted from the model, or if it is an “Unnamed” piece deleted from the screen. If the base piece is named, is does not have to be on the screen for reconstruction.


Corner as per the Second Piece

Select the SEAMS tab and embim2901.pngbutton in this tab, or execute “Seams/ Corner as per the second patter” text menu items.

Following the sequence described above, click the left mouse button in line 1, 2, 3, 4.

embim2902.png

As a result, a step will be constructed on the lower sleeve equal to the step or corner of the upper sleeve in its height, for pressing the allowance on the bottom sleeve.  

embim2903.png

Aligned Step as per the Second Piece

Select the SEAMS tab and embim2904.png  button in this tab or execute “Seams/ Aligned step as per the second patter” text menu items.

·         Following the sequence described above, click the left mouse button in line 1, 2, 3, 4.

embim2905.png

As a result, a step will be constructed on the lower sleeve equal to the step of the upper sleeve in its height

embim2906.png

Aligned Corner as per the Second Piece

Select the SEAMS tab and embim2907.png button in this tab or execute “Seams/ Aligned corner as per the second patter” text menu items

·         Following the sequence described above, click the left mouse button in line 1, 2, 3, 4.

embim2908.png

As a result, a corner will be constructed on the lower sleeve equal in its height and shape to the upper sleeve cap part (for pressing the seam allowance on the upper sleeve).

embim2909.png

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

This function is performed on pieces with the main outline – Finished view only.

Notches on the Cut

Commands of the SEAM tab File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image001.gif are used to make notches on the Cut outline.

POINT tab functions are used to make notches on the main and other outlines.

Making (Deleting) a Notch on the Cut

In order to make (or delete) a notch on allowances and modifications of the Cut outline:

Select the SEAMS tab and embim2910.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2911.png.

Or execute “Seams/ Make (delete) a notch on the cut” text menu items.

  • Specify the point on the Cut outline (1) where a notch is to be introduced.
  • To continue the function operation, specify the following point of the cut; and to stop the command performing, click the right mouse button.
embim2912.png

If there has been a notch in the Cut point, it is deleted when this function is performed.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

This function is intended for operating with the Cut outline only.

Inserting a Notch on the Cut

When operating with allowances and modifications of the Cut outline, a notch can be inserted at the set distance from the point or in the ratio on the section. To do this:

Select the SEAMS tab and embim2913.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2914.png. Or execute “Seams/ Insert a notch on the cut” text menu items.


Mode 1:

    In order to insert a notch at the set distance from this point:

  • Specify the Cut point (1) from which the notch is to be inserted.
  • A data entry window is displayed on the screen where the “Insert at the distance” mode is activated.
embim2915.png
  • Enter the value of the offset from the specified point instead of the default value.

The entry sign (“+” or “–”) determines the positive (clockwise) or negative direction of the construction.

·         To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button.


A notch with a triangular shaped point and embim2916.png modification logo is created on the section.

Mode 2:

In order to insert a notch on a Cut section which will divide the section in the set ratio:

  • Specify the section on the Cut outline (1) where the notch is to be inserted.

·         A data entry widow where the “Divide in the ratio” mode is activated will be displayed on the screen.

embim2917.png
  • Enter the ratio value instead of the default value.

The ratio will be measured from the section starting point (clockwise).

 

ATTENTION! Nonlinear values (coefficients, parts) are given in square brackets.

·         To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button.


              A notch with a bow-shaped point and
embim2918.png
 modification logo is created on the section.


When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

This function is intended for operating with the Cut outline only.

Point at the Intersection with the Line

In order to insert a point on the Cut outline at the intersection with a line of other outlines:

·Select the SEAMS tab and embim2919.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form ofembim2920.png. Or execute “Seams/ Point at the intersection with the line…” text menu items.

  • Specify section (1) on the Cut
  • Specify section (2) on the outline, whose intersection is to be found.

A notch will be obtained on the Cut contour.

embim2921.png

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.  

This function is intended for operating on the Cut outline only.

Point on the Normal to the Line

In order to construct a point on the normal from the main outline point on a section of the Cut:

·        Select the SEAMS tab and embim2922.png  button in this tab . The cursor will take the form ofembim2923.png.             Or execute “Seams/ Point on the Normal to the Line” text menu items.

  • Specify point (1) on the main outline which the perpendicular will be drawn from.
  • Specify the section on the Cut outline (2) where the point is to be inserted. Then, a notch (with the screen logo of this modification) will appear on the cut.
embim2924.png

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

This function is intended for operating on the Cut outline only.

Shift the Point Along XY

"Shifting of Cut Points" commands of the SEAMS tab are used to shift points on the Cut outline. To provide shifting of points on the main and other outlines, the POINT tab functions are used. In order to shift a point of the Cut outline along the coordinate axes: ·        Select the SEAMS tab and  embim2925.png  button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2926.png.   Or execute “Seams/ Shift the point along XY” text menu items. =

  • Specify point (1) on the Cut. A data entry window for shifting parameters will be displayed:
embim2927.png
  • Enter the shifting value in and  cells and press the central button –  embim2928.png

      The point shifting path will be displayed on the screen (red outline).

embim2929.png

The shifting value can be set using arrow buttons.

The point moves in increments in the appropriate direction and the and cells are filled in automatically. The drawing of the point shifting path is displayed on the screen.

The increment value can be changed in the Increment cell.

·        To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

This function is intended for operating on the Cut outline only.

Shift the Point in the Direction of …

When operating with allowances and modifications of the Cut type outline, this function enables shortening (prolonging) sections along their direction.   

    In order to shift the Cut terminal point along the section:

·        Select the SEAMS tab and embim2930.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2931.png.     Or execute “Seams/Shift the point in the direction of…” text menu items.

  • Specify section (1) on the Cut near the terminal point along which its shifting will be set. Thus, the shifting vector is specified.
  • A data entry window will appear on the screen where the offset value is to be entered.
embim2932.png

The value sign (“+” or “–”) determines the point movement direction. If the section is to be prolonged, the displacement value will be positive, if it is to be shortened, the value will be negative. 

·         To confirm the data input, press (“Yes”) button. In order to cancel, press (“CANCEL”) button

embim2933.png

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

This function is intended for operating on the Cut outline only.

Setting a Cut Point Vertically (Horizontally)

In order to set a point of the Cut outline vertically relative to the specified point: ·         Select the SEAMS tab and the embim2934.png  button in this tab. The cursor will take the form ofembim2935.png. Or execute “Seams/ Set a cut point vertically (horizontally)” text menu items.

  • Specify point (1) on any outline. The point of the Cut will be set relative to this point.
  • Specify the shifted point on the Cut (2). It will be shifted to one vertical line with the first specified point.
embim2936.png 

SECOND MODE:

In order to set the point of the Cut outline horizontally to the specified point, press the <CTRL> key on the keyboard after the command has been selected and perform the same actions.

·         In order to stop the function execution, click the right mouse button.

When embim2945.png button of the on-screen menu is activated, the logo of this construction on the Cut can be seen on the screen.

This function is intended for operating on the Cut outline only.

NOTE : The function also operates in the turned coordinate axes (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image009.gif).

Main Outline Modifications

The function modifications can be performed not only on the Cut derivative outline, but also on the main outline, as well as the Inner and Crosshair outlines. Constructions are created without a logo – the modification symbol, which allows deleting and reconstructing them using new data. embim2937.pngembim2940.png Besides, the SEAMS tab has special functions ( ) for the main outline, not for the Cut.

Deleting Steps and Corners

If pieces get into the system with step/corner sections on the main outline, they can be deleted using the “Delete step, corner” function. To do this: ·        Select the SEAMS tab and embim2937.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2938.png.            “Seams/ Delete step, corner, etc.” text menu items can also be executed.

  • Specify section (1) of the step (corner, “fox ear”) on the main outline.
embim2939.png

The main section is deleted and a point is created at the intersection of its two adjacent sections.

ATTENTION! In order to delete steps/corners on the Cut outline, embim2947.png function (“Seams/ Delete one modification command”) is used.

Setting a Dart Point

This function allows constructing  a dart or a pleat by setting the opening central point so that it coincides with the piece cut in the closed dart with regard to the pressing side.

The function is performed on the main outline and is intended only for darts whose sides consist of inner outlines (i.e., not for the cutout). In order to construct a dart: ·        Select the SEAMS tab and embim2940.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form ofembim2941.png. “Seams/ Set a dart point” text menu items can also be executed. =

  • Specify the dart side (inner outline) in the direction of pressing (1), the second dart side (2), and then specify the point to be set on the cut (3).
embim2942.png

NOTE:1. The points of the dart opening are to be Terminal points

2. Mandatory requirement: The outlines which are the dart sides must coincide with the main outline point.


 embim2943.png

3. In the PLEATS mode, it is important to specify the pleat sides next to the expected setting position:

 embim2944.png

4. In order to create a dart point on the Cut, only File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image011.jpg function (“Seams/ Dart designing”) should be used. This function is intended for operating with the main outline.

Modification Deleting

All modifications of the Cut outline can be visualized on the screen by pressing embim2945.png button (“Display seam parameters”) of the element visibility and sensitivity block. Then, corresponding logos will appear on the screen in the positions where modifications have been made on the pieces.

embim2946.png

In order to delete a performed modification of the Cut contour:

Select the SEAMS tab and  embim2947.png button in this tab. The cursor will take the form of embim2948.png.  

 “Seams/ Delete one modification command” text menu items can also be executed. Specify the logo of the modification to be deleted precisely. The logo and the construction will be deleted in this case.

 

When a modification of the Cut is deleted, all the other constructions, created in it or on one of its sections, are deleted. If you delete the “end” modification from which nothing has been created, one specified construction will be deleted.

ATTENTION! Modifications constructed not on the Cut, but directly on the main outline (Finished view or Operating outline) do not have any construction logos and are not deleted by this function.

ADDITIONAL MODE:

 

 

When embim2945.png function (“Seams/Delete derivative outline construction rules”) is executed in the normal mode, seams and all modifications of the Cut are deleted. But when the command is executed while the <CTRL> key on the keyboard is being held down, only modifications (a ledge, a corner) will be deleted on the specified piece, while seams will remain.

NOTES:

 

1.      When the piece structure is changed (sections, points, etc. deleted) which affects sections and points of modifications of the Cut, the construction and its logo will be deleted and will have to created again.

Recommendation: Modifications of the Cut should be performed at the end of the work with a piece for finalizing the piece cut.

This peculiarity does not apply to constructions, performed directly on the main outline or other outlines, because new sections of constructions are included into the piece structure.

2.      When the piece structure is destroyed, while the Cut modification cannot be reconstructed automatically, it may take incorrect form with a heavy distortion of the Cut.

You have to delete this construction manually or switch on the mode of automatic deleting of incorrect constructions, by activating the “Delete erroneous seam constructions” program setting (“Setting/Program parameters” text menu items, GENERAL/Constructor tab).


3.  After unfolding the piece half to the whole (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image013.jpg - “Piece/ Unfold to the whole”), modifications on the second part of the piece are reconstructed, only if the symmetry section is not one of the initial sections of the construction.

Modification Reconstruction

Parameters of the Cut modifications (ledges, cuffs, etc.) created earlier, can be changed with their automatic reconstruction on pieces based on new data. 

In order to view and change parameters of a construction created earlier:

·        Select the SEAMS tab and the button of the required command in this tab. For example, to reconstruct a turn up, File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image002.jpg button should be selected. The cursor will take the form of File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image003.gif.  “Seams/ Cuff” text menu items can also be executed.

  • Specify the screen logo of this construction, created on the piece earlier, PRECISELY.  

      A window with construction parameters which can be viewed or changed will be displayed on the screen:

    
embim2951.png

Similarly, for other commands of the SEAMS tab: When a construction logo is clicked on with the cursor of THIS FUNCTION, construction values and modes can be seen and changed.  

NOTES:

 

1.    In the “Cuff” construction (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image002.jpg) with several folds, data of only one turn up (the last one) are displayed in the parameter window.

embim2952.png
  1. In  embim2954.png  function (“Seams/ Shift the point along XY”) only parameter entry windows will be available for changing. You can neither change the direction and increment, nor see the shift path.
embim2955.png embim2956.png

     The values on the logo and in the parameter window correspond to the piece position in the base, not on the screen. Functions for which reconstruction is not reasonable are not reconstructed: “Bezier”, “Aligned steps/corners”, “Insert a notch”, “Set point vertically/horizontally”.

Special commands of the tab for operating with the main outline File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image012.gif are not reconstructed as well.

 

     4.   For “At the beginning” and “At the end” construction modes, situations may occur when there will be no reconstruction because new sections can be created in these modes which will change the piece structure.

E.g.: Construction of the bottom turn up (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image002.jpg - “Seams/ Cuff”) with “At the end” construction deactivated in order to create a vent allowance (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image014.jpg - “Seams/ Ledge at the corner”) on the lateral section without the turn up Terminal point.  When reconstructing the “Cuff” with the “At the end” construction mode activated for turn up , the “Ledge” will be deleted because its initial section (with its original number) will be absent.

embim2953.png

Examples of modifications

Example №1

Construct a hem seam allowance  and a step for stitching the Front lapel around:

embim2957.png

1. Set off the size of the seam of border stitching around (here: 0.7cm) (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image004.jpg - “Seams/ Set seam parameters”) – for all sections except the section of the side panel stitching  

embim2958.png

2. Construct a ledge based on two points of the bottom section (embim2959.png -  “Seams/ Construct a ledge”) so that there is no point at the end of the section (clockwise), i.e. in the mode of intersection of two adjacent seams. The ledge width equals to the total width of the hem seam allowance, including the seam set at the bottom (here: 0.7cm):

embim2960.png</center?

3. Design the hem seam allowance with a step (embim2961.png - “Seams/ Create a step” or “Corner”, “Fox ear”, etc.) having entered the required width of the turn up (here: 4cm)

<center>embim2962.png

4. Insert a notch in the bottom turn up point (embim2963.png  - “Seams/ Make a notch on the cut”).

embim2964.png

5. If necessary, align the hem seam allowance  line on the front section horizontally (embim2965.png - “Seams/ Set cut point vertically/horizontally” – in this case, in the mode with <CTRL>

embim2966.png

6. Create a ledge on the upper section (embim2967.png - “Seams/ Construct a ledge”) with the height (here: 0.3cm) to obtain the required seam width (1cm) considering the seam which has already been set (0.7cm).

embim2968.png

Example №2

Construct a skirt vent with a bevel at the bottom end

1.      Construct a hem seam allowance in the “Do not construct” mode at the beginning of the bottom section (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image002.jpg - “Seams/ Cuff”).

embim2969.png

     2.    Create a “Ledge” based on two points of the vent from the point of the bevel beginning (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image006.jpg - “Seams/Construct a ledge”)

embim2970.png

3.      Create a step based on the vent width for the turn up at the bottom ( File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image010.jpg - “Seams/ Create a step”)   

embim2971.png

4.      If necessary, shift the vent lower end for the required amount (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image014.jpg - “Seams/ Shift the point in the direction to…”)

embim2972.png

Example №3

Construct a front hem seam allowance  on the Cut (main outline – Ready view):

Fig.2: Set the cut from the ready view outward (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image002.jpg - “Seams/ Set seam parameters”).

           Set a variable seam (0;-1) on the bottom section.

Fig.3: Set a ledge (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image004.jpg - “Seams/Create a ledge”) of a variable width (-4cm; -3cm) on this section of the variable seam and in the “Search for intersection” mode at the beginning of the section clockwise.

Fig.4: Construct a turn up allowance (File:C:\DOCUME~1\admin\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip image006.jpg - “Seams/ Fox ear”) with the width of the first section (clockwise) – 1cm and that of the second section – 4cm.

embim2973.png

Example №4

Construct seams on very acute angles

In order to construct seams from a long and acute angle, you can first construct a “Fox ear” with a very small parameter (0.05cm) on the main outline (not on the Cut). This will create an additional small section on the corner where a seam of the required width can be set from.